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 Bottom Paint Techniques on the Trailer?
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Kper
Captain

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USA
417 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/15/2015 :  06:24:07  Show Profile
It's time for bottom paint and I was hoping to accomplish as much as I can on the trailer in the driveway so I can limit my hoist time finishing the keel trunk and the other half of the keel. Does anyone have a system that works well for them getting the hull off the bunks far enough to get a roller in there? I figured loosening the cable on the keel was a good place to start so I can keep that weight on the trailer and maybe strapping the axles to the trailer to help prevent the trailer from lifting. Beyond that I'm not sure what is the best way to raise her off the bunks.

Can I get some helpful advice? Thanks you!

Kyle
'86 SR/SK/Dinette #5284 "Anodyne"
In the barn where we found her...

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2015 :  07:33:22  Show Profile
With proper bracing in the right places you can accomplish what you describe above. Some here have posted pictures in the past. I raise the hull a couple of inches (fore and aft, but not at the same time of course) and lowered fore then aft roller trains or bunks in your case.


1989 C25 TR/WK, #5822
1973 McVay Minuet 19
1975 Jester 12
1981 C25 SR/SK, #2428
1981 C22 SR/SK,
Tanzer 16
Sunfish

"There is nothing, absolutely nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Kenneth Grahame

Edited by - OJ on 04/15/2015 07:37:55
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2015 :  12:35:55  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by Kper

...I figured loosening the cable on the keel was a good place to start so I can keep that weight on the trailer...
That's the way it should always be on the trailer. There should be a keel support built into the trailer under the keel so the hull is supporting only about half of its weight, and, when on the road, the cable is not taking any shock loads. The keel should be lowered onto the support as soon as the boat is on the trailer, and raised only for launching.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 04/15/2015 12:39:49
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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2015 :  14:29:29  Show Profile
First let me say that I use to do this with my power boat on a trailer, Don't know if it will work with a sailboat. I would crank the dolly wheel all the way down raising the bow of the boat. Put cinder blocks and pieces of 2x6's from the ground up to the hull in the forward part of the hull then crank the dolly wheel fully up lowering the trailer away from the boat or enough to get a roller in between the hull and bunks. Same process for the rear.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound


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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2015 :  14:59:35  Show Profile
The easy way to paint under the bunks and the keel/cb is to arrange for your marina operator to hoist your boat off the trailer in the afternoon, just before quitting time, and leave it hanging in the straps overnight. You can paint it then, and he can launch it in the morning. My marina operator does that for all his customers. I can't say whether most do, but it doesn't cost them anything in terms of time or materials.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore
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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2015 :  15:11:01  Show Profile
I've used a similar trailer jacking technique to get to the keel trunk but used well supported, athwart ship 2X8X6'with a 4' span. I put a piece of 2x4 at each end and top it with a 2x6X6' so it conforms somewhat to the hull as it takes weight. I did not lower the opposite end. Now I just brush as well as I can around the keel, growth isn't much of an issue in that area of turbulence in fresh water. I know it doesn't help you, but the rollers are easy - 1-2' of slack in the winch cable, a line from the stern cleats around a utility pole, pull forward (don't disconnect the trailer before winching it back). My new trailer gives much better trunk access.


Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
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jduck00
Captain

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USA
313 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2015 :  17:51:48  Show Profile
Just spring for the yard time. I did most of the bottom job on my boat while it was on the trailer and then had it put on stands in the yard to finish up. So much easier with it on stands. The yard only charged me $12\day and I could have saved myself a whole lot of time by just doing it all at the yard. Just my 2 cents.

Jeremy Duck
The Lucky Duck
1980 SKSR Hull # 1850
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jduck00
Captain

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USA
313 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2015 :  18:03:00  Show Profile
BTW, I asked around quite a bit trying to figure out the best way to put a swing keel on stands. I didn't want the stands to hold the whole weight of the boat. The guy at the marina and I worked this out. It worked nicely. Just throwing it out there.


Jeremy Duck
The Lucky Duck
1980 SKSR Hull # 1850
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DavidBuoy
Admiral

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USA
707 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2015 :  19:03:31  Show Profile
Our marina used two sawhorses in addition to the jack stands



Captain Rob & Admiral Alyson
"David Buoy"-1985 C25 SK/SR #5053
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dasreboot
Admiral

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803 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2015 :  03:51:19  Show Profile  Visit dasreboot's Homepage
had some pics on this using jacks and a 6x6 to take off the bunks. I'll post them when i get home. wish i'd put them in the forum galleries!

now i have a trailer with pads, and it is very easy.

Todd Lewis
Eowyn 87 TR/WK C25 #5656
ARWEN 84 TR/SK C25 #4031
www.mainsailsailingschool.com
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Kper
Captain

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USA
417 Posts

Response Posted - 04/17/2015 :  05:20:46  Show Profile
Thanks everyone.

Kyle
'86 SR/SK/Dinette #5284 "Anodyne"
In the barn where we found her...
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