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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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cockpit paint

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stang9150
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USA
138 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/11/2015 : 11:05:20

What would be a good basic white paint, I can use on my cockpit deck and cockpit area? Something that I can roll or brush on.Thanks

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2015 : 11:07:36

Don't paint over gel coat

1989 C25 TR/WK, #5822
1973 McVay Minuet 19
1975 Jester 12
1981 C25 SR/SK, #2428
1981 C22 SR/SK,
Tanzer 16
Sunfish

"There is nothing, absolutely nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Kenneth Grahame

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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5851 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2015 : 11:31:48

We could give better suggestions if you give us more information. What's wrong with the cockpit floor? Is the gelcoat still intact, or has it been damaged and repaired? Is it grimy looking? Has it been painted before? Has it lost it's non-skid?

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

stang9150
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138 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2015 : 14:39:01

The whole boat has been paint before as far as I can tell. I will get some pics this weekend and post them up.I know for sure the upper parts of the cockpit have been done. I had major chipping here so just decided to see what was under it. I don't have any pics of the deck right now but as you can tell, it is not a good situation.

ct95949
Captain

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Aruba
300 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2015 : 19:33:01

I would power wash all that paint off then see what the non skid looks like. It would have to be much worse than what you are showing before I would try painting it again. I had a rough looking cabin top after removing a lot of obsolete hardware. I painted it with Interlux non skid paint and it held up well for several years. I painted my smooth transom for the same reason, looked great, but started peeling after a year. My advice-try not to paint.

'90 SR/WK #6017. PO of '79 SR/SK.

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2015 : 20:59:54

The problem with paint is exactly what you're looking at. If there's any chance of rehabilitating the gelcoat, most of us would strongly recommend it.

If paint is needed on an area that gets any wear, a 2-part polyurethane (with a hardener you mix in) is better than conventional paint. Better yet is a 2-part professional finish like Awlgrip or Imron. All of these require heavy-duty preparation--removal of every trace of old paint and a significant amount of the gelcoat to give the new paint "teeth". Then you will likely need to do something about the non-skid areas--there are several approaches...

Frankly, I prefer looking at a boat with worn gelcoat to looking at an amateur paint job, and I would never buy a fiberglass boat that has been painted above the waterline, except with Awlgrip by a highly reputable professional. Ordinary paint on fiberglass always turns into a mess.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

stang9150
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138 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2015 : 21:56:47

I understand the paint was a bad issue when I bought it. But it was cheap and had a newer outboard and decent sails. First boat to learn on an have some fun. I could sell the outboard for what I bought the boat for lol. Had the boat for over a year now and just trying to make it look a little better.

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2015 : 06:53:22

I didn't mean to say you shouldn't have bought the boat--only that you will likely be disappointed some day if you paint her, and it could be detraction when you (eventually) try to sell her, as it was when you got her for the proverbial song. But I might not represent the market--I'm a curmudgeon who has been "messing about with boats" of various sorts for over 60 years.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 02/12/2015 06:57:12

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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5851 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2015 : 07:19:31

I agree with Craig. The old paint looks pretty loose, so I'd try to power wash it off as much as possible, and then probably strip off the residue with a chemical stripper designed specifically for fiberglass. You really shouldn't try to paint over the old, loose paint. After you get the old paint off, you might find that you can restore the original gelcoat. If not, you can decide to paint it.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2015 : 07:43:30

From the pictures it looks like the paint is fairly loose. Might even be house paint. If it were me I would get a very good high pressure pressure washer, Rent one if you have to then go to town on the paint working in 2ft areas at a time. Then maybe a little paint remover for whats left.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

stang9150
Navigator

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USA
138 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2015 : 09:34:31

The area I tested on was very lose paint, I removed it with a razor blade took about 20 minutes. The whole boat is not the same way in some places it is still holding on, the bad areas are on the non skid sections. The power washer is a good idea and I do own one, I just can't do it in the water. I don't think there is much I can do for the areas that are not nonskid. I agree that the paint appears to be some type of home paint. The paint is probably around 6-8 years old.

JanS48
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141 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2015 : 22:33:00

Greeting, I have an 82 C25 that is also in need of some fixing, mine has not been painted but I have some rough spots here and there. To those that have replied so far - is it possible to re-gel coat small areas ? 2ft or less someone else said to get a product that 'fixes' the oxidation which requires buffing (which I could do) What's the preferred method for touch up's and/or oxidation / dull looking topside?

Jan - 82 FK STD Rig

82 C25 SR FK
Sailing out of Newport Harbor.

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 02/13/2015 : 08:23:12

Jan, WM has a variety of gelcoat repair products--I've used the one-part, white "Scratch Patch" in the small tube, and it worked great for small gouges in the white hull. Build it up higher than the gouge, sand it down, and the gouge disappears. Other products provide color matching options. Non-skid areas are tricky--I've seen mats that are used to make impressions of non-skid patterns in gelcoat before it hardens, but have never used one.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 02/13/2015 08:27:16

stang9150
Navigator

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USA
138 Posts

Response Posted - 02/16/2015 : 09:46:54

Ok here are some pics from this weekend.I have the cockpit deck and cockpit bulkhead plus a pic from the deck.

pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 02/16/2015 : 10:00:36

There are so many nice cheap boats, maybe it is time to take the motor and sails and get a boat that will be more fun and less work.

Frank Hopper

stang9150
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138 Posts

Response Posted - 02/16/2015 : 10:22:05

That is really not an option. Plus I enjoy working on it. I will upgrade one day just not anytime soon.

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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3992 Posts

Response Posted - 02/16/2015 : 11:38:55

Honestly if the entire top,deck,cockpit is covered like this then sandblasting is the way to go but I'm sure the cost would be more than the boat is worth and you are willing to pay. I think just sanding and painting over it would look terrible(rough finish) and you wouldn't really be happy with the results and having to look at it all the time. So the most cost effective solution I can think of would be to use a water based paint remover applied in the evening. Let it work on the paint overnight ( I still think its house paint) Then the next day hit it with the power washer. You could use something like this. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ready-Strip-1-gal-Pro-Formulation-Environmentally-Friendly-Safer-Paint-Varnish-Remover-RP01/100665905

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

stang9150
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138 Posts

Response Posted - 02/16/2015 : 13:37:39

I have been looking into gel coat safe strippers,this appears to be safe for boats from reading the reviews and description. I think I will give it a try.

islander
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3992 Posts

Response Posted - 02/16/2015 : 14:28:44

Really what do you have to lose? To keep it manageable you can do it in sections say you could do the cockpit area first then at another time pick another area etc. See how it goes. If after the paint is removed and the gel coat looks like crap then at least you have a smooth clean surface to apply the proper topside paint. Sometimes you have to apply the 'Good Enough Rule' If it looks good from 15ft away its 'Good Enough'

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 02/16/2015 : 20:00:16

Kiwigrip, alwgrip, and perfection (among many others) will take this on pretty easily honestly... Thing is, you have to sand all that garbage off, level the non-skid, or at least rough it up... then you'll need to prime it with a loaded primer, even interprotect would work, but there are other primers that might be better suited, I've looked only lightly into it, because I may need to paint the deck on my S2.

Anyway. if you take your time, prep the surface correctly the results can be quite good.
http://youtu.be/A5qzh9V7PZM

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

Edited by - shnool on 02/16/2015 20:00:37

Jan Briede
Navigator

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USA
162 Posts

Response Posted - 02/22/2015 : 18:49:45

The latest Sail magazine (March 2015) has an article on painting gelcoat).

Jan Briede
Beagle
1979 TR #1242 FK
L-Dinette
Yorktown, VA
Blog -- http://vanomad.blogspot.com/

stang9150
Navigator

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USA
138 Posts

Response Posted - 03/05/2015 : 09:13:45

I have done some stripping and checking out the gelcoat, i don't think I can save it. I have noticed a lot of brown spots which are either from the po trying to prep for paint or just worn. At this point I think I need to finish getting the old paint off with a sander and some 220 paper to prep for paint or gelcoat. So I have to decide a good 2 part paint or roll on gelcoat is the way to go.

ct95949
Captain

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Aruba
300 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2015 : 09:58:12

It sounds like you've made up your mind and probably don't want any more advice but I'll tell you once more anyway- you're going down a path that you will regret. What you want to do will cost a lot of time and money and won't look good unless done by a professional(more money).

As Frank said before, I would strip the good stuff off the boat then donate it to a charity or haul it to the dump. There are so many boats in great shape, loaded with upgrades and at a bargain price that it would be crazy to try to fix yours. Sorry if this sounds harsh but 'been there, done that'.

'90 SR/WK #6017. PO of '79 SR/SK.

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2015 : 12:53:12

I dunno... As I said, I'm not a fan of amateur painting of fiberglass, but if you have essentially nothing invested in the boat itself (omitting the motor), there's not much to lose. Blasting won't be worth the investment, but stripper shouldn't be a big investment except for time. I'd do that after power-washing. Then rolling and tipping with a 2-part polyurethane like Perfection should make her look nicer for a few years, and not deteriorate the way yours has.

I've been warned that fiberglass-safe strippers lose a lot of their effectiveness if the fiberglass is colder than a certain temperature (like 55F)--thus overnight treatment in the springtime can be disappointing, and the boat can take a while to warm up in the morning.

If preparation and/or paint on the nonskid areas turns them to "yes-skid" areas, you can mask around them and apply a final coat of something like Interdeck, which has some sort of grit in it. Or I suppose you could do it with sand--paint, sprinkle, dry, paint... It's a common professional approach with Awlgrip--see this video.

We'll be waiting for the "after" pictures.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 03/08/2015 13:06:10

stang9150
Navigator

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USA
138 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2015 : 20:58:57

No worries on the advice I understand what you mean, been down this road with project cars. The stripper has worked well being around 60 at night here in Florida. I really have nothing to lose by pushing forward with this work. If I could get a few years out of a paint job so be it. No paint work this weekend spent to much time sailing :)

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2015 : 05:50:24

I have some friends that got a Capri for next to nothing. The boat looked like crap but had a good motor. They slapped a coat of paint on it and invested most of their money towards sails and rigging then went racing. They do very well in the races and honestly the boat looks good out on the water. Yes you can tell that it was roller painted if you get up close but its a solid/safe boat mechanically. Bottom line is that they get just as much fun and enjoyment from that boat as they would from a newer boat for less $$$

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

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