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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Greetings All Boat: 82 FK Std rig. Can I use an outboard with a 20 in shaft length? I see that many for sailboats are a 25 in length but told by others that a 20 is fine. Comments please.
A 25"(extra long) is best but a long(20") will work. If you are buying a motor I would target a xlong shaft engine. If the boat came with a perfectly good Lshaft then use it. I have a 20" Honda that came with my boat and although the prop will pop out of the water in rougher conditions it's not that big of a deal to live with. I put the mount fully down to stop this from happening and in 5yrs never had the engine come close to getting swamped. If you stay with the Lshaft then the mount can be fine tuned by removing it from the transom and moving it up to the last bolt holes in the mount. This will raise the engine some (1" or2") when in the fully down position thus positioning the engine at a better height. All this said, A 25" is still the best if you have a choice.
...If you stay with the Lshaft then the mount can be fine tuned by removing it from the transom and moving it up to the last bolt holes in the mount. This will raise the engine some (1" or2")...
I suspect he means to move it down to the highest bolt holes, which will lower it...
The importance of a longer shaft increases with the length of the boat, since the issue is fore-and-aft pitching causing the prop to ventilate, momentarily over-revving, and losing power and cooling water. 20" is generally adequate on a boat up to 20-22'... But as Islander suggests, if you're buying new and are on anything larger than a small lake, most of us here will recommend dropping another "boat unit" or so for the 25-incher (as does Catalina Yachts in the owner's manual).
quote:I suspect he means to move it down to the highest bolt holes, which will lower it.
No Dave I mean raise the mount. With a 20" shaft motor using the second to lowest setting on the mount works only in totally smooth conditions so when things get a little rougher with wakes or waves you have to drop the motor to the lowest setting. Although this puts the prop low enough it's actually too low so to get it a little higher you have to move the mount up. The perfect setting for a 20" shaft would be about half way between the second to lowest and the lowest setting.
So Jan, as you can surmise from above, placement and vertical travel of the bracket plays a large part in getting the prop low enough to maintain adequate bite in various conditions.
I achieved some additional depth by cutting off part of the lower starboard corner of my bracket. My cavitation plate sits about 1" below the water when the boat is at rest.
Someday, when I have nothing to do I will explore an extension kit for my Yamaha 9.9 4-stroke.
...Someday, when I have nothing to do I will explore an extension kit for my Yamaha 9.9 4-stroke.
FWIW, I looked into that for a Honda once... The evidence (and the dealer) suggested it would be cheaper to sell the old L motor and buy a new XL. The extension process involves a new drive shaft, a new shift shaft, a new exhaust pipe, the housing extension, and (in my case) the labor... and I would have ended up with an 8-9 year old motor. Instead I ended up with a much nicer model with electric start, automatic choke, high thrust, and maybe 20 more lbs.--all for a net cost of something line $800.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.