Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I bought teak trim from Catalina Direct a few years ago when they said they lost their teak supplier and were selling the last of their inventory. I think they have a new teak supplier now. Someone else may know of a cheaper option.
Anyway, the trim fit well. To me that made it worth it, even if I paid a higher price to Catalina Direct, because I'm not a wood worker.
There are no holes drilled in the trim as you'd expect, so you'll need to use the old trim pieces to mark the new trim pieces for drilling holes. I put down a bead of 4200 between the trim and around the holes before mounting the new trim.
I replaced the bridge step for the companionway top step using a new piece of teak. It took a bit of finagling using a table saw to get the piece to fit over the fiberglass and mate with the inside trim piece, but it fits like a glove and does not interfere with the companionway crib-board slats.
I have a similar question. I'm re-finishing the trim pieces at the top of the bulkhead at the forward end of the cockpit on my 1978 C-25. After sanding the old finish off, one of them appears to be mahogany instead of teak. Big color difference between the two, so I would like to replace the mahogany piece with teak, but Catalina Direct doesn't appear to stock that trim part. Anyone know of another source?
If you are replacing the two "eyebrow" teak trim pieces on each side of the companionway, I have a set, coated with Cetol, I believe, that are ready to install. I bought them for our C-25, but ended up selling the boat before I could do the replacement. $25 for the pair, plus postage.
David, If Jerry really wants them, he can have them. While I contacted you first, Jerry did post in this thread before me. My boat has them, they are just crappy looking- replacing them was certainly not on the top of the priority list. Thanks.
<< My boat has them, they are just crappy looking >>
You might remove them and sand them down and clean them up and remount them. Teak is endangered.
I took my hatchboards down to Carlton's Rare Woods in Atlanta, looking to buy wood to make new ones and he ( Carlton's son ) basically impressed me with the realization that the wood was beautiful just as it was.. after a little work.
thanks Ray, I have done that with most of the wood on the boat, but both these "eyebrows" are gouged from the canvas rubbing on them and one of them is cracked in half with some missing wood, I could recut them and make them skinnier I guess....
I sanded most of my teak with an orbital (lightly) and then hand sanded to smooth it--used maybe a little more sandpaper than normal, but no big deal. It can be striking when you see the brand new teak that appears!
I'm with Dave on this and a big fan of renewing rather than replacing. I'm currently sanding and re-varnishing all of the exterior teak and find that some of it is so degraded that the crevices need to be filled in to provide an even surface. I'm experimenting with Elmer's glue mixed with teak sawdust, but not sure how durable this solution will be in the long run. Anyone here have an experience with this approach?
I am still interested in the matched eyebrow pieces David. The portside mahogany piece that I have now only works if they are all painted and I can't bring myself to paint instead of varnish.
This will leave me with an extra starboard piece Scott. If that will replace your broken and unsalvagable piece, I would be happy to send it to you for the cost of postage. It's been sanded and sealed, not in "new" condition, but may be better than you have.
Thanks Jerry, Maybe after you get the pieces from David, you can send me a photo of the one you don't use. Thanks. I have sealed all my teak with epoxy before varnish and it looks really sharp. I think epoxy would work better than elmers glue. Elmers is not structural, is not waterproof, and does not dry clear so will add a milky hue to the repair piece. The best option would be a high quality epoxy like West System or the like and use the hardener 207? or whatever hardener is completely clear, I can't remember the number off the top of my head. Depending on how big the crevices are, you might not even need to use sawdust and just let the epoxy flow into the crevices and with several coats it will be as smooth as glass. Then you would need to seal over the epoxy with something UV resistant or the epoxy will yellow from the sun. You mentioned you are varnishing and that would do perfectly. Let me see if I have some photos of the pieces I have finished so you can see the final result- I bet my wood started a lot like your wood, totally dark grey, dirty, pitted, with black spots and streaks...
Okay Jerry, they are yours. Didn't mean to hyjack your thread. I'm regatta chairman for a regatta ths weekend. I've got your email and will respond with payment info sunday night or Monday morning.
Thanks Jerry, Maybe after you get the pieces from David, you can send me a photo of the one you don't use. Thanks. I have sealed all my teak with epoxy before varnish and it looks really sharp. I think epoxy would work better than elmers glue. Elmers is not structural, is not waterproof, and does not dry clear so will add a milky hue to the repair piece. The best option would be a high quality epoxy like West System or the like and use the hardener 207? or whatever hardener is completely clear, I can't remember the number off the top of my head. Depending on how big the crevices are, you might not even need to use sawdust and just let the epoxy flow into the crevices and with several coats it will be as smooth as glass. Then you would need to seal over the epoxy with something UV resistant or the epoxy will yellow from the sun. You mentioned you are varnishing and that would do perfectly. Let me see if I have some photos of the pieces I have finished so you can see the final result- I bet my wood started a lot like your wood, totally dark grey, dirty, pitted, with black spots and streaks...
Trying to figure out how to post a photo in this reply and not having much luck. Any advice out there??
Getting an interesting education here. Thanks for the help, Paul. Now I'll try to post a photo of the eyebrow panel I promised Scott. If it works, you can let me know if you want it, Scott.
Getting an interesting education here. Thanks for the help, Paul. Now I'll try to post a photo of the eyebrow panel I promised Scott. If it works, you can let me know if you want it, Scott.
That is not the piece that Catalina calls an eyebrow on my 89. There is a peice that runs the length of the cabin top above the windows that is called the eyebrow, it is essentially a half round trim peice. It is found on boats after 87. Did they call your peice eyebrow or something else?
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.