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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Mast raising system

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capelyddol
1st Mate

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USA
62 Posts

Response Posted - 10/02/2014 : 19:49:57

I've begun constructing an 'A' frame a la Scott out of 2X4, but there's not much on the forum concerning the other end - lifting the top of the mast to a point where the 'A' frame can work without ripping the tabernacle out the cabin top. I've considered making a device similar to that used by Ted Kuenzli in his C-25 'Technical Tips' "Bear's Abode - Misc. Modifications" [http://catalina-capri-25s.org/tech/tech25/bearsad1.asp] but it still requires lifting the darned thing eight feet to get it on the roller, and my TR mast is no lightweight. CD do a 'Mastup Mast Stepper' that fits on the pintles but the instructions just say: 'While standing at the aft end of the cockpit, raise Mast Up to its extended position'. Apparently it's a telescopic tube, but there's no mention of any raising device (gears, jack, etc) and I'm guessing trying to extend a metal tube with a 150lbs mast on top would be even harder than lifting it eight feet by hand. I'm afraid the admiral isn't much use when it comes to muscle so this procedure definitely has to be a single-handed job. Any views on how high the mast needs to be before an 'A' frame can function safely? Has anyone ever used CD's 'Mastup Mast Stepper'?

Popcorn, anyone?

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 10/03/2014 : 05:57:03

quote:
Originally posted by islander

Scott, interesting photo, your boat is an 87? yet you have the inboard tracks.

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 10/03/2014 : 06:07:32

First off the mast is about 80lbs give or take. The idea of the A frame is that it gives the line an upward and forward pull on the mast so a jump start was never needed. Bruce (Voyager) used my A frame alone and I don't think he had any problem. The step plate if in good condition can easily handle the initial forward force. Catalina designed it to be stepped this way. If your still worried that the step plate might let loose I would jam a 2x4 between it and the bow pulpit for added security. OJ thats not my boat, I lifted the photo from Franks photo collection because I didn't have one showing the orientation of the chain plates. I believe thats his 89.

Edited by - islander on 10/03/2014 06:22:59

capelyddol
1st Mate

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USA
62 Posts

Response Posted - 10/03/2014 : 11:13:35

quote:
tall rig mast is about 150 lbs. Response Posted - 08/29/2010 by JimB517
Past Commodore

150? 80? Everywhere I look I find a different weight for the TR mast! One day I'll do a Charles Atlas (remember him?) and hoist it over my head while standing on the scales! The Hell I will!

I need a roller somewhere at the stern, otherwise it'll be a major hernia just heaving the mast base back to the tabernacle. I guess what I was asking was: what's the minimum height I can get away with?

From your information, Scott, it would seem a roller atop a relatively short pole would be adequate. However, this leads me to think (perhaps erroneously) that the more horizontal the mast, the greater the strain, not only on the tabernacle but the 'A' frame itself, as the apparent weight of the mast must be initially increased when lifting from that position.

Perhaps I'm over-thinking it and should just get on and build the thing?

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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 10/03/2014 : 13:07:47

quote:
Perhaps I'm over-thinking it and should just get on and build the thing?

Yes a bit but nothing wrong with going over every detail before hand. The mast can't come down to a perfectly horizontal position because it will hit the cabin top so for me who just ocasional will have to drop the mast a simple T-Bar that sits on the cockpit floor in front of the scuppers is all that is necessary. I simply duck taped it to the stern rail and the traveler bar because its only temporary for the time the mast will be down. If you plan to leave it down or trailer the boat you can make something more elaborate. You could add a keel roller to the top for a roller if you wish. My T Bar is 6ft 3", And at 63 and 160lbs I'm no Charles Atlas and I had no trouble moving the mast around. Once you lower the mast the first time your going to say to yourself 'Well that wasn't hard. I'm sticking with the @80lbs give or take. Your tall rig might be a few lbs more but how much can 2ft of aluminum tubing add. 150lbs? No way.

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Akenumber
Navigator

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USA
247 Posts

Response Posted - 10/03/2014 : 19:52:34

I understand the complexity for single handing it, but on my 22 I would just have a line attached to the jib hallard and have my wife stand in front of the truck. All I had to do was guide the mast and she controlled the weight effortlessly. Just be careful of wind and don't take your sweet time with it and it works out great.

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sweetcraft
Admiral

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USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 10/03/2014 : 20:30:34

Monday at 10am I'm helping a first timer of a SRC25 lower his mast. I showed my hardware and lines that I use for the TR and even sketched the principle idea. I didn't explain good enough as he asked please bring my system to his boat and lower his mast. I should start another thread as I use a gin pole (spinaker pole) and lines to hold it and lines to steady the mast. Everything fits in a small bag except for the pole and the mast crutch. The crutch has a roller on a pole with pins. I set it on the traveler with a bracket attached to the stern pulpit. The rudder is left in place. This is designed so it is all carried aboard for cruising in the NW. I'm a little nervous and I did tell him no guarentees but he said let's do it. The season is fast closing, lake is going down and he had a really tough time getting the mast up. Any thoughts on this?

Edited by - on

capelyddol
1st Mate

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USA
62 Posts

Response Posted - 10/04/2014 : 06:16:41

Jim
If your set-up works with a TR, you should have no problems with a SR. I'd be interested to see how you work it with the spinnaker pole, as I have one on my boat but am presently constructing a more cumbersome 'A' frame set-up, being a newbie myself. It'll do the job for me as I'll be sailing Lake Superior next season and will only need to raise and lower once (hopefully!).
If you are ever able to post pics I'd be most interested.

Edited by - on

capelyddol
1st Mate

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USA
62 Posts

Response Posted - 10/04/2014 : 06:25:56

Scott
Thanks for the extra pic (and advice!). I'm champing at the bit to get on with construction, but the weather's been foul here in Michigan's U.P. and there's snow forecast this weekend! Boat's on its trailer and being a FK it's quite a long way from deck to ground so I don't fancy taking a tumble off slippery fiberglass. I reckon if I make my 'T' bar six inches longer than yours that should account for the extra two feet of mast. Later, I can shorten it, if necessary - the 'T' bar, that is, not the mast.

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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 10/05/2014 : 13:36:42

quote:
I reckon if I make my 'T' bar six inches longer than yours that should account for the extra two feet of mast.

The length of the mast doesn't determine how high the T- bar should be. It only keeps the mast up high enough so that when you lower the mast it doesn't hit and rest on the sliding hatch. Your mast will extend farther back off the end of the boat so there will be more mast past the T-bar than in front of it. For that reason when you remove the Bolt in the mast plate put some downward pressure on the foot of the mast so it doesn't jump up like a seesaw. I understand about the cold weather closing in. I just came back from a trip to Buffalo. 38deg and a cold rain. Different world from L.I.

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