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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Jib sheet routing

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stang9150
Navigator

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USA
138 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/31/2014 : 08:08:31

Trying to figure out the best way to run the sheets on this track. I have tried a few different things, as far as inside the lifelines and outside the lines. What do you guys do? Thanks

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 07/31/2014 : 08:46:20

The sheets go outside everything, Shrouds, Lifelines, Stanchions.

Edited by - on

pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 07/31/2014 : 17:10:39

The toe rail track puts your sheets outside everything like Scott said. The later models moved the genoa track "inside" which means you sheet outside the shrouds and inside the lifelines.

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Lee Panza
Captain

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USA
465 Posts

Response Posted - 08/02/2014 : 21:57:36

quote:
Originally posted by stang9150

Trying to figure out the best way to run the sheets on this track...

Your posting this thread finally got me motivated to finish a modification I had started at least a year ago, Joe, so thanks for providing the incentive.

Since I usually go out alone, and often in winds that are more than the Catalina was really designed for, I wanted a way to be able to adjust the lead of the jib sheets without having to step out onto those little side decks. Fancier boats have genoa blocks on movable cars that can be controlled from the cockpit, but the cars are usually not compatible with our 1" T-tracks and the complete systems are very expensive. So I made something up with relatively inexpensive components:

This system uses (on each side) a Garhauer block on an Antal car, with a Lewmar cheek block at forward end of track. I had to add a second bale to each car for dual-directional hauling. The Antal car fits the track OK, and it has a nylon insert to help it slide, but the friction is still too much to allow it to be moved under much of a load. That means I need to slack the sheet or tack to the other side in order to reposition the car.

At the cockpit end there's a pair of Ronstan mini cam-cleats and a pair of Harken cheek blocks. It all had to be set high enough for the car to be able to slide past (to remove it for service). There's enough line to be able to pull about 18" at a time. Both sides of the loop can be cleated or un-cleated with one hand, so the car can be positioned while the other hand manages the tiller (or the genoa sheet). I had originally just mounted a small cleat on the outside of the combing, and I've been winding the aft end of the continuous loop haul line around it, but the cheek blocks and cam cleats will be far more convenient. I just finally got around to adding this hardware (and new haul lines) today.

I usually adjust the windward side while there's no load on it and then tack over; then I can adjust the side that had been under load. Sometimes I'll feather the genoa and shift the car without tacking, but that usually requires using my other hand to keep light, variable pressure on the sheet to keep the genoa from flapping itself to death. In spite of this, it's still a lot more convenient than having to step out onto the side-deck to reach a pinned car in order to pull the pin and reposition the car. One of the most common mistakes I see so often on the water is boats with the jibsheets led too far forward or too far aft for conditions. Having a headsail that can be reefed by furling sure is nice, but the benefit is so often seriously compromised by not being able to conveniently move the sheet blocks. If it's awkward or inconvenient to move the blocks they usually just stay put.

So now I can't wait to go out and try out the new hardware for cinching the haul lines.

Edited by - on

davidbloodworth
1st Mate

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USA
78 Posts

Response Posted - 08/03/2014 : 08:44:52

That is a great idea. Two thoughts. Would the jib sheet pull the car forward if it was allowed to. Just wondering if you could do what you did with a single line pulling the car back and letting the sheet pull it forward..
Could you use a single line looped and a single cleat to hold it whichever direction was needed..
Just some thoughts but I love your upgrade.

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DavidBuoy
Admiral

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USA
707 Posts

Response Posted - 08/03/2014 : 10:08:01

quote:
Originally posted by davidbloodworth

That is a great idea. Two thoughts. Would the jib sheet pull the car forward if it was allowed to. Just wondering if you could do what you did with a single line pulling the car back and letting the sheet pull it forward..
Could you use a single line looped and a single cleat to hold it whichever direction was needed..
Just some thoughts but I love your upgrade.

Other way I believe.

Edited by - on

Lee Panza
Captain

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USA
465 Posts

Response Posted - 08/03/2014 : 14:08:14

quote:
Originally posted by davidbloodworth

That is a great idea. Two thoughts. Would the jib sheet pull the car forward if it was allowed to. Just wondering if you could do what you did with a single line pulling the car back and letting the sheet pull it forward..

Systems with ball-bearing cars rely on the forces in the sheet to scoot the car aft; they just need a single line to pull the car forward. The Antal car has a nylon liner to reduce friction on the track but it still won't move under much of a load, so it really needs bales on both ends and a second line to pull it aft (I'm surprised it isn't manufactured that way; I had to drill and tap them to add eye straps, which I had to twist).

quote:

Could you use a single line looped and a single cleat to hold it whichever direction was needed...

As I had initially set this up that's essentially what I did. The single line was a continuous loop - both ends were affixed to the car, with the forward portion looped back around the cheek block at the front of the track. That left the bight of the loop back at the cockpit, and I could pull on either side to move the car forward or aft. The line coming aft from the car passed between the legs of the cleat (couldn't use a solid-base cleat for this) to prevent losing the loop overboard. There was about 3' of line beyond the cleat (18" doubled-over), which was enough to wrap the bight around the cleat and secure it.

When I first put this system in place I wasn't sure how well it would work, so before I went any further I left it with just the loop and the cleat. But it's been working so well that I finally completed the installation (thanks again for the nudge to get me around to it). There isn't much static tension on the haul line (in either direction) while the car sits in one position, so the cleat can be small. I'm using 3/16" line. But securing it around the cleat with one hand was a bit of a nuisance. This'll work a lot better.

I probably should mention, in case it isn't obvious from the picture, that I permanently removed the pins from the cars. They can be temporarily fixed in the up position, but I didn't want to risk having one get dislodged back into the active position and lock the car in place.

Since I frequently have to adjust the amount of headsail I have flying, while underway, I use this system a lot, and it's been a valuable accessory to the furler.

Edited by - on

jerlim
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1484 Posts

Response Posted - 08/04/2014 : 10:22:15

I'm pretty comfortable with wind up to the low 20's...what amount of wind do you consider the edge of the operating envelope?

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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 08/04/2014 : 11:30:02

Between 25 and 30, depending on how the gusts clock or back, and of course depending on who my crew is. If the wind is true then stay out and enjoy yourself. As I said in another post, if you know your rig you can trust it. The problem is with a C25 you need both sails if you are going to really be in control so being able to reef the headsail to 80* or so is important and being able to get a good flat reef in the main is huge.

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