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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Repairing the sliding hatch

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/23/2013 : 12:48:23

The flanges that Pearl's main hatch ride onwere worn and flexed slightly upward. I actually had to lift the hatch a bit to clear the boards. When I removed the teak guide/retainers I saw that much of the fiberglass was worn and cracked away, complete collapse was probably only a few years away. My solution was West 610 cartridge epoxy and aluminum angle. 1/2"x3/32 for the top and 3/4x1/16 on the bottom. Grinding away the gel oat was a messy but painless activity and took very little time. I did a trial fit and used blue masking tape along the upper edge. A thin smear of unthickened epoxy on the metal and glass surfaces prepped it for a thick bead of 610. I pressed the 1/2" channel in place, clamped it, filled a couple of low spots where the epoxy hadn't squeezed out, scraped the excess and removed the tape. I flipped it after a 1 day cure so I can do the underside today. I have a local source for Teflon if the metal doesn't slide well on the wood. To bad I didn't think to take photos when I started. The 610 cartridges are very convenient.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle

Edited by - on

pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 10/23/2013 : 13:04:14

I have some clear teflon adhesive tape that I found on Amazon. BMW uses it to quiet squeaks where rubber seals around the doors move against door jams.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 10/23/2013 : 13:50:13

I decided the flanges on the sides of the hatch weren't engineered to carry its weight--just to prevent it from lifting out of the teak rails. I felt the vertical surfaces on the front and back sides of the hatch, and the raised molded rails on the cabintop (pop-top) were meant to support the hatch. On that basis, I fashioned four nylon sliders from chair glides, and positioned two in the cutouts on the front edge and two on the back edge of the hatch so they rode on the raised fiberglass rails. That ended the squawks from the forward edge catching the non-skid, and presumably ended the wearing of the side flanges. I don't have any pix where you can see the sliders.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 10/23/2013 13:51:30

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 10/23/2013 : 14:37:30

There are no contact surfaces on my hatch other than the flanges. There are cutaways to clear the molded rails, and the flanges do distribute the weight better than point loading. 30 years of sliding just took its toll. I will use 1/16" Teflon strips if I need it, but slippery can quickly go from easy to dangerous. Waxing the sliding surface once on my last boat demonstrated that. Nothing like a hatch that flies from beneath your feet when you are messing with the mainsail.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 10/23/2013 : 17:16:19

I encountered this same problem on my sliding hatch and came up with the idea of using nylon furniture slides to carry the hatch load instead of the flanges. The fix took just minutes to employ and I'm still on the original set. That was 11 years ago.

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 10/23/2013 : 20:35:32

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 I encountered this same problem on my sliding hatch and came up with the idea of using nylon furniture slides to carry the hatch load instead of the flanges. The fix took just minutes to employ and I'm still on the original set. That was 11 years ago.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">2003 for me.

It also took a few minutes. Can't say how it lasted. IMHO, this approach eliminates the stress the flanges weren't designed for (or were poorly designed for), uses the raised rails and structurally stronger ends of the hatch to support somebody stepping on the hatch, and helps the forward edge of the hatch clear the non-skid on the pop-top.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 10/23/2013 21:14:27

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 10/23/2013 : 21:15:50

I thought about the slides, but thought that frequent use over time might wear the gelcoat. I might be crazy and wrong, but I'm happy with my structural approach.

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5231 Posts

Response Posted - 10/23/2013 : 22:21:29

Dave - Passage's slider pads are still holding up. The two forward units are the originals, and I replaced the two aft ones. Leftovers from a hardwood floor project. Keeping them in place is not always easy - the forward ones are "hooked in" by design somehow. The aft units are stuck in place with white gorilla glue. They still come loose from time to time.
The track wear is an issue - but not on the verge of failure.
I am careful not to walk or step on the hatch when walking around the boat. The poptop yes, the hatch no.
I have found myself grabbing the hatch from time to time to stabilize myself, and wouldn't you know it? It did its job - it slid!

Edited by - Voyager on 10/23/2013 22:24:24

hewebb
Admiral

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USA
761 Posts

Response Posted - 10/24/2013 : 04:54:17

Mine were worn quite a bit when I got the boat. I removed the sliding top and added several layers fiberglass cloth and resin then sanded smooth. Almost got it to thick for the track. I trust that will last as long as the rest of the boat.

Edited by - on

cshaw
Captain

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USA
460 Posts

Response Posted - 10/24/2013 : 06:36:57

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave5041
 The flanges that Pearl's main hatch ride onwere worn and flexed slightly upward. I actually had to lift the hatch a bit to clear the boards. When I removed the teak guide/retainers I saw that much of the fiberglass was worn and cracked away, complete collapse was probably only a few years away. To bad I didn't think to take photos when I started. The 610 cartridges are very convenient.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

That describes my companionway sliding hatch perfectly! No problem (for me) for no pics when you started, but do you have any pics of the repair job in its current state?

Thanks, Chuck

Edited by - on

PZell
Admiral

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USA
548 Posts

Response Posted - 10/24/2013 : 07:52:26

Dave, How about when finished up you make a Cat-25 tech article out of it? That would be great for me for next deadline. I can submit it if you wish.
Cheers,

Edited by - PZell on 10/24/2013 07:54:12

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 10/24/2013 : 09:37:35

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave5041
 I thought about the slides, but thought that frequent use over time might wear the gelcoat.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

In the eleven years since employing the nylon slides, I can detect no signs of wear on the raised gelcoat hatch guides. I also wax the guides every year as well and as I like to keep a clean boat, the raised guides are rather free of dirt and grit that may lead to wear.

Another benefit of the slides, besides the minimal time and effort to install, is the cost, which for me probably ran around $1.50.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 10/24/2013 : 11:18:37

Chuck, I have a couple of cellphone photos in the gallery in a projects album. I have been delayed by temperature today with no improvement in sight. I am considering going with a polyurethane since they will cure down to 40º and the primary purpose of the bottom angle is to provide a surface less susceptible to wear.

Don, I happy to hear that it works well and meets your needs. I mentioned before that I'm not comfortable with wax and sliding hatches.

I also like spreading my weight over roughly 28 square inches when I'm walking around up there.

Paul, I'll see what I can do for you.

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 10/24/2013 : 13:39:16

Sliders like these, They take the load off the flanges so that the flanges will float in the slot in the teak rails like they are suppose to.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 10/24/2013 : 18:44:05

I'm not so sure of the "supposed to" part.

The "rails" add a lot of strength to the opening and help keep the water out, but the original system slides on the flanges. All that really matters is that your system works for you. My repair is certainly a lot more work, but it will meet my requirements.

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Poky
Deckhand

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USA
23 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2013 : 06:02:03

I used the Nylon slider approach like Scott, only I used smaller sliders (about half as thick) and only placed them on the forward flanges. I also removed the nails and cut a grove for the flange to sit it, then I put a small amount of super glue.

Took care of the "Dying Goose" sound and slide great.

My favorite part... Total cost was about $3! I love simple elegant solutions.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2013 : 06:11:28

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Poky
 I used the Nylon slider approach like Scott, only I used smaller sliders (about half as thick) and only placed them on the forward flanges. I also removed the nails and cut a grove for the flange to sit it, then I put a small amount of super glue.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

That's exactly what I did using a thin slider, maybe 3/16" in depth. Thicker sliders raised it too much binding the flanges against the top of the teak rail slot.

Edited by - on

panhead1948
Captain

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345 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2013 : 10:23:51

OK I'm reading these posts and have some questions. Where did you get these sliders, what exactly do they look like. does someone have name brand or store that I might find them at.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2013 : 12:44:50

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by panhead1948
 OK I'm reading these posts and have some questions. Where did you get these sliders, what exactly do they look like. does someone have name brand or store that I might find them at.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

The sliders, or rather furniture/chair sliders, are round disks of various sizes that are affixed to the legs of wooden chairs to allow them to slide easier over a floor. They can be purchased about anywhere, Home Depot, ACO, Walmart,...etc. The ones I used had a finish nail molded into it (like shown) which I simply pulled out.

Edited by - dlucier on 10/25/2013 12:46:20

britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2013 : 12:50:46

[url="http://www.amazon.com/Tack-Glide-30-pieces/dp/B003PNZUL8/ref=sr_1_6/185-5950928-3645845?ie=UTF8&qid=1382730571&sr=8-6&keywords=Furniture+Drawer+Glides+Plastic"]

[/url]

Paul

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Kim Luckner
1st Mate

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USA
96 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2013 : 13:29:15

I used felt pads that are 1 inch in diameter and about 1/8 inch thick. They have self adhesive tape on one side. Placing 3 along the length of each side has made a dramatic difference in how easy my sliding hatch moves. The felt provides a little compliance and does not mar the gel coat at all. I picked them up at home depot for a few bucks.

Edited by - on

Jay Schkloven
1st Mate

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USA
84 Posts

Response Posted - 10/26/2013 : 08:10:03

I had a problem with the teak slides on my sliding hatch. I used hard wood tongue depressers on the slide part because the teak was in bad shape. I have not had a issue in 8 years. Just fiberglassed them in place. I also use the plastic chair slides and have also found them a big improvement.

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