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Come on lets hear your projects!

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jmadd
1st Mate

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USA
85 Posts

Response Posted - 09/19/2013 : 17:38:18

Ok, Time to talk about the last project I worked on, the leaky windows. I hadn't planned on documenting this when I started - its been pretty much talked to death already, so I'm lacking a lot of pictures. For some background reading you might want to review an old thread that talks about some different approaches.

http://catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=17265&SearchTerms=window

That talks about cleaning out old caulk; just giving up on the original windows; re-caulking, etc.

My plan was to try to avoid the mess of using caulk and instead use butyl tape. I came around to that idea when I was looking into rebedding deck hardware and read a blog about using butyl tape. http://sundownersailsagain.com/butyl-tape/ The Sundowner people said they used a butyl tape sold by Compass Marine. Check that out then read about rebedding deck hardware at http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware You can buy the tape from them. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

I used that to rebed some stanchions and it was pretty easy to work with so I decided to try it with the windows. This was AFTER I found out that the kit I bought from Catalina Direct didn't work for the Capri - or the important part didn't. The Capri windows have a U-shaped channel that the window sits in. But the sides of the U are not of equal length. The outside part of the frame is shorter than the inner part where the glass seats. So the U shaped vinyl glazing channel that ships with the CD kit won't work.

The glass is made to press flush against the inside of the U channel and it kind of just floats there. There were a few plastic slugs in the channel at what seemed like random places that are apparently supposed to provide positioning stability but they were not sufficient to hold the glass in place. For that you need caulk, or in my case the butyl tape. I added additional plastic strips inside the channel to help the tape hold the glass in place. I was concerned that over time the glass would just pull the tape loose or just allow the window to sink to the bottom of the channel leaving a gap at the top.

So I cleaned the frames and rebedded the glass using the butyl tape and put the frame halves back together. Simple, right? No. The windows wouldn't always fit flush against the frame, it seems the frames had bowed but the window glass stayed flat. Some small pressure is necessary to push the glass against the bedding butyl (or calk if you choose to use that. The original rubber glazing that fits into the gap between the outside of the frame and the glass originally provided that pressure. As most of you know, however the original glazing has shrunk and stiffened up. When I pulled mine out it was pretty much ruined by the process. I was determined to replace it anyway, and I spent considerable time and expense at the job of trying to find a suitable replacement. I never found anything that was as tough as
the original glazing. What I did find was this stuff... CRL476C Buy that on Ebay for about 25 bucks for 100 feet.

The rubber strip that goes in the inside channel wasn't in too bad a shape - I could have re-used that but I used the replacement out of the Catalina Direct window repair kit - that part did fit.

When I mounted the windows, I used the butyl tape again between the window frame and where it mounts against the outside of the cabin.

This is getting way too long. I better start winding up. I hope this has either given you some idea of a butyl tape fix or a determination to go with flush-fitted windows. But if you go with the flush fit, reference my earlier remarks about how you'll likely have to do some repair/calk/epoxy work on the holes for the window frame. It's pretty easy to pull one window out and see what I'm talking about.

Some other pictures.

This shows how I relieved the glazing channel radius in the corners to get it to fit flat. There's a strip of butyl tape on there I was trying to get between the vinyl and the frame but that didn't work.

This shows what happens if you get the wrong glazing channel. Won't make the corners and lay flat. But this picture also shows the inside channel where the glass sits. It's the grooved black part you can see pretty clearly on the right.

There are a couple more pictures in the gallery. https://www.catalina-capri-25s.net/cgi-local/MBR_gallery.cgi?Album+2535+137

The big question is ... did it work? Can't really tell yet. I haven't had the heart to pour a bunch of water on it to find out! The thing is that even if I have to take them out again, I'll only have to deal with the butyl tape and not caulk.

Edited by - on

Sdpaine
Deckhand

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USA
3 Posts

Response Posted - 09/23/2013 : 09:39:53

Getting my Capri ready for single handed transpac this year. I tried to do the solo Hawaii trip last summer but ran into 6 days of gales that threatened to turn into a cyclone off Baja. I don't do cyclones!
I have owned the boat for decades and modified year by year. 2" deep stringers under the cabin top, glassed in port lights and installed Lewmar ports (just rebuilt), took out main bulkhead and created new ones that are glassed into the hull (ties in hull, overhead and compression post), changed pulpits, new electrical panels, water tank, lee clothes, duel battery mount, carbon/epoxy injected into rudder log to reduce play, self steering vane, autopilot, VHF/AIS system, forward hatch removed - deck glassed in - good Bomar hatch installed, One plotter and one GPS, new stereo, lines back to cockpit, solar panels, and other stuff I have forgotten.
I got the boat when it was run up on a cement ramp and the keel was partially ripped off. I dropped the keel, cut a 6 x4 hole and added stringers and a 4' x 3" x 4' fiberglass plank to support the keel.
I now plan to make permanent rear bulkheads, add a bracket for a propeller driven generator (really an auto generator), new reefable jib (about a 110% that will reef to about a 85%), clean up the computer area (on the backside of the port side of the main bulkhead), get the autopilot to work with the vane so the vane servo provides the power to move the rudder, refurb the trailer for the trip to San Francisco (the SSS transpac starts there) and Hawaii where the boat will be shipped back to San Diego, plus more stuff I don't remember now.
I have gotten to know the boats pretty well by now and would be delighted to answer any questions you may have. My boat has gone through 3 encarnations: PHRF race boat, family/race boat and now single handed boat. It has done all three delightfully well. I have attached a picture of the boat in day sailing mode that was taken prior to the new hatch installation.

Edited by - on

Sdpaine
Deckhand

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USA
3 Posts

Response Posted - 09/23/2013 : 09:55:23

I was unable to insert the photos. Can anyone help me with this problem?

Edited by - on

abraxis
1st Mate

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USA
49 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2013 : 06:49:16

I too had a problem with window leakage on originals as well as being rather ugly due to age (1981)
I purchased new (exact shape) ones from MARK PLASTICS,369 E Harrison St. Unit G, Corona CA. 92879
951 735 7705. Fax 951 735 0701.

They fit perfectly and look better than original. I replaced mine in Dec. 2008 and still get compliments on them
They are a bit pricy though.

Can't stop upgradeing and makeing ABRAXIS one of the biggest eye catchers in the yard. CAPRI 25s just have fine lines
from day one.

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2013 : 17:04:42

Sdpaine YOU are the MAN! I saw your yellowbrick for your attempt last year... read some rather not so nice commentary about your trip on that SA website... I was IMPRESSED with how far you got. Of course they believed that the Capri 25 couldn't do it... I disagree, with some planning it's possible. Yeah some backups to hardware and some smart thinking.

YOU are my freaking hero! and one wild critter! this is my tipping my hat....

Email me any pictures you got (shnool @ yahoo)... sorry YOUR story should trump ALL... Folks this crazy SOB is the Capri 25 owner to look to as THE AUTHORITY on what is required to make the 25 a Bluewater racer! Yep, read that REALLY slow... SINGLE HANDED TRANSPAC with a Capri 25!

More info:
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=147917
Results from 1978 to 2012
http://www.sfbaysss.org/2013/PDF/shtpcombinedresultsthru2012.pdf
In 1986 it's been done in a Capri 25, an impressive feat for sure. Look at the list though... lots more small boats than I'd have thought.

Edited by - shnool on 10/11/2013 17:16:18

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 10/12/2013 : 04:53:10

I am going to get as many of these projects into the next mainsheet as I can... Thank you guys, keep them coming.

Edited by - on

usa 63
1st Mate

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USA
42 Posts

Response Posted - 10/14/2013 : 20:37:29

I'm replacing the plywood under the cabin sole with divicell foam. The wood was completely rotten and I'm tired of fixing things so they can rot again. I have about 300 pictures and I'm trying to get a few on here. From a rules email on WYC's website it may even be class legal and if not I'll have a good sailing boat that will hold together and with doing all PHRF racing as long as I tell them I should have any problems. Hoping to do the scuppers and finish painting her and the project list will be over for now

Thanks

Nick

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2013 : 03:32:38

Awesome... This is great news. I think we'll have some great project articles for the Mainsheet from all of you!

Edited by - on

jmadd
1st Mate

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USA
85 Posts

Response Posted - 10/28/2013 : 19:55:05

One last update on my projects. I talked about using butyl tape on the windows, and it seems to have worked to fix all the window leaks at least in the short term. I have a cover that covers the windows and I had that on for a couple months. A week ago Sunday I left the cover off after a race and between then and last Sunday we had some pretty good rain storms. When I opened it up for the race I could not detect a drop of water that had come in through the windows. So its at least a short term fix. There is still water coming in that collects in the small compartment forward of the place where the porta-potty sits but I think that's just from the forward lower shroud. It's been a long battle against the leaks, but I think the end is in sight. I can't over-emphasize also how much water was coming in through those scuppers. Reference the earlier post about those. That work completely fixed the water coming into the rear lazarettes.

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2013 : 03:50:34

yes I have the leak that comes in from the scuppers... it took me a while to nail it down, as the prior owner sent me on a wild goose chase figuring it was the T-track for the genoa... I actually think they are bedded properly, but one day whilest on my head in the lazarette, I noted a stain trail leading from directly under the scuppers on the starboard side, and water laying just below the aft bulkhead where ALL my water always winds up.. FUN winter project (not).

Edited by - on

Treasurer
Roy Hinrichs

Members Avatar

USA
61 Posts

Response Posted - 02/18/2014 : 13:24:37

Doug, I want to welcome you to our Association. Sounds like you have a lot to offer and am sure our members would love to hear more about yourself and your sailing adventures.
I would love to invite you to join. Here is a link:
https://www.catalina-capri-25s.net/cgi-local/MBR_system.cgi?Join
The cost is minimum, $22.00 per year. There are many benefits.
Steve

Edited by - on

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