Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I really would like others to write to me about their projects on their Capri 25s... I don't want the technical articles to ALL be about ME (I am a pretty boring guy)!
If you have done work on your boats/trailers or the like... I'd love to hear from you... Post it here in this thread even! We can take multiple projects from several people and turn them into TECH articles for the mainsheet, or if you want you can email them to me. capri25tech @catalina-capri-25s.org
Come on folks don't let these crazy Catalina 25/250 guys have all the fun!
OK John, I just ordered a roller furling setup for my boat. I will document the installation blow by blow. Do you want it here in the forum or would you rather receive the info via email. I'm a pretty slow worker on recreational projects so this may take me a while to get fully installed, but I've committed the funds and it will get done eventually.
After dragging my very expensive new 155 racing genoa up 2 flights of steps after our NO WIND race yesterday, in the 85+ temps... so that I could properly ROLL said sail... I was cursing under my breath (probably NOT so under my breath) about how I don't care how many seconds per mile it'll cost, roller furling would be WAY BETTER! I told anyone who would listen (which nobody cared since they were all grumbling too about the winds) that my next "racing" boat will be a class designed for a furler and a HUGE asym! Maybe a J/80 or something! I want MORE speed, and less work. DONE!
OK John, I'll probably use email since I've never figured out how to post a pic here and because at my pace this will probably take me months to accomplish
And, after this comes the bow sprit and Asym. I've already begun the purchase research.
I don't want to spend the money for a J/80 or J/70. I race against both boats at present. I can beat the J/80 all day long, but not the J/70. Could be the skippers however, but also those boats aren't as well suited to our lake wind conditions as the Capri is.
So, I'm just going to settle for "J/80 izing" the sail handling on my boat for now.
I've not researched that yet John and I'm not even going to bring it up. We have some very competitive racing at our Club but in a very friendly and informal way. The last person that tried to be a stickler for the PHRF rules almost got run out of the Club, lol.
Bottom line is I'm not going to worry about it, I race more for the adrenaline rush than for the trophies on the mantle. (and I'm commodore of the club this year :)).
If I do have to adjust my rating of 174 I'll include that in my report on the upgrade when and if it happens.
Back to the sprit, I've already discussed this with a sailmaker and I think I'm going for about 36" of extension beyond the bow. I'm looking at a Selden product which I like and looks to be about the right size for this boat.
I'll keep good records of whatever I do in this regard also. My goal is to get people off the foredeck. I've just turned 60 and last summer I had a teenager get knocked unconscious on my foredeck by an out of control spinnaker pole. I'm getting too old to worry about such stuff anymore and I'm just racing for the pure fun of it now.
I've considered downgrading to a 2 man dingy, but I just like this boat so much I figured I try to make it easier to sail with less crew even if it takes a little hit in speed. What is particular about my racing venue is that we sail very short course round the buoy races and sail handling of the square spin and big genoa are major time consuming acts in the normal course of the race. Often I've set the spinnaker only to douse it again after 10 minutes. I'm banking the improvements in sail handling are going to offset any potential penalties that PHRF puts on me because we will be able to carry the sail closer into the marks then previously we were able too.
Well, lets see, in the last 8 months I replaced the rear bulkheads, I have had the windows out trying to stop the leaking (still working on the end game on that one) tightened up the rudder post bearing surfaces, sealed the scuppers... probably other things I've forgotten.
jmadd - each of those are great projects! I personally would love to see the aft bulkhead procedure (I figure I have both aft and forward bulkhead replacements for my future projects, and I also have leak prevention in my future). Do you have pictures of the steps of the project? Any or all of them? A short writeup of each is fine too.
I have water in my boat ALL the time. I know it's NOT my windows (oh I am sure they leak) but I have a complete cabintop cover I put on my boat after every use, and yet water gets in. My lazarettes have a raised lip with a V/notch gasket, so I am PRETTY SURE, it's not them. That unfortuately leaves the scuppers (which look like they were upgraded at one point), and genoa/spinnaker tracks,Or chainplates. Sadly I think that means I'll be taking everythign off, and rebedding with butyl... which is NOT something I look forward to.
Either way we're all right there with you. So yeah, if you can do a short paragraph on each little project, and a picture (or pictures) that'd be fantastic... if you want to write the whole thought process that lead you to do the projects... that TOO would be great.
Listen this magazine is for you, and BY you. If we consistently get good information put into the mainsheet, it'll inspire others to write about their work. I think the Capri has been under-represented, and it's a great boat (see Joe not wanting to give his up!). So lets show off our boats, and the love we've put back into them to keep them up to the job they were built for.
Joe I was thinking about your project to convert your boat (ultimately) to a sprit and an asym.... I suppose you'll have to gybe on the outside due to the masthead rig then? I figure the slot will be WAY to tight to do it on the inside. There is a reason they use fractionals with asyms, more room to gybe on the inside.
The bulkhead project is straight forward. I talked some about it in the thread on [url="http://catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=25558"]Bulkhead plywood type.[/url] Upon pulling out the old ones it was obvious that they are not structural. Mine were held in by only three screws each. Seriously - it wasn't just that the other screws had fallen out because there's only three holes in the fiberglass behind them. As I mention in that thread, if I were to do it over I'd template the contours of the hull where the bulkhead seats in for a better fit. Mine ended up pretty short of the bottom. Either the old ones had rotted out more than I thought or they were purposely made short because the builders anticipated water there.
The top is the only critical part for fit because that is what you can see from the cabin and where the trim is stapled on to give a finished look.
Paul, baby steps... lets get the projects... I don't want this to be a show about me. When they get their names in lights, we'll get them uploading their projects locally, so we can really utilize the power within the website's photo gallery (which I love!).
We won't tell them that's it's likely helping Capri 25 sailors around the world, wouldn't want them to get a big head or anything.
I didn't see a way to create an album, I was thinking maybe because I had to login. I tried logging in and couldn't because it said my membership was expired, even though I'd renewed it in May.
I got logged in and uploaded images. Thanks Paul. Here's some new ones.
The next job was sealing the scuppers. I was getting one to two gallons of water in through the scuppers over the course of a three hour race when water would come up through them. Spending 10 minutes sponging water out of the lazarettes after every race was extremely irritating particularly on the Central Texas 100+ degree days we seem to get so many of now. This job was also pretty straight-forward although it could get more complicated, and maybe should be.
You can get at the scupper where it comes out of the cockpit and into the transom from the lazarettes. My boat originally had some kind of wood - I think it was a 2x4 that had been been coated with resin and somehow fit around the scupper tube. I can't tell much more than that because by the time I got to mine they were completely rotted out and I pulled them out in pieces leaving the scupper intact. I'm guessing the wood was supposed to provide some kind of support to keep the scupper from flexing but it wasn't clear to me how that would work so I didn't try to replace them.
After that it was just a matter of cleaning the scupper and areas where the scupper was attached good enough that I could wrap fiberglass strips around the scuppers and fillet them into the mating surfaces on the transom and the cockpit. After that I was still seeing slow drips off the scuppers when i ran a lot of water through there so moving out to the exterior I relieved the seam between the scupper and where it mated to the cockpit floor and outside transom and filled that in with epoxy. I also drilled some small holes on the inside so I could inject some epoxy with a syringe. Finally I painted over the epoxy to protect it from UV. The results weren't pretty but so far there has been no evidence of water intrusion into the lazarettes so I'm pretty happy that I can spend that after-race time in the water cooling off with a beer instead of having my head in a lazarette with a bucket and a sponge!
Very cool. You got me wondering if that is where my water is coming from, as honestly that'd be easier than the T-tracks I am thinking. Great write-up!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jmadd</i> <br />...particularly on the Central Texas 100+ degree days we seem to get so many of now...
OT, just got back from 5 days of tubing in New Braunfels and 4 days at Lake Travis yesterday. You are not kidding about the heat!!! After a great steak dinner at Steiner Ranch Steakhouse we did have an awesome lightning show Friday night though!
John, you had me wondering... and looking again... 1st I can verify there is what appears to be a block of 2x4 AROUND the scuppers inside... also, I think you've nailed my leak. I see a dark stain around the scupper, that runs down the lazarette floor so I am reasonably sure it is there.
I also think (ironically) that it's leaking from the cockpit side NOT the aft side. I think I am right there with you.
I haven't forgotten about your projects! I just missed the deadline for the Mainsheet to write them up... (sorry I was sailing).
Now that I have some time, maybe I can roll in a bunch more projects and do a multi-projects write-up, and submit a bunch at once. John your projects are timely, and critical to us all as Capri owners... we have to do them! In fact I'll be following your lead and doing them myself this winter.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by shnool</i> John your projects are timely, and critical to us all as Capri owners... we have to do them! In fact I'll be following your lead and doing them myself this winter. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Im glad you found them of use, John. I still have a windows-leak repair writeup to do, but I'm kind of waiting to see if my methods worked. Rain has been of short supply here lately. :-) I also failed to take pictures of the channels inside the frame, if anyone has any of those send me one or two and I'll add it to the write-up when I get to it. Regards, John
John, just so you know I've read a bunch on the window repairs... and the consensus is that all repairs leak again in short order (something about flex of the boat)... The suggestion (I think it was WYC) was to overlay plexi like a Capri 22 (or Oday 26, J boats, or various Hunter models)... I think Catalina ALSO switched over to this method in later versions of the Capri 25.
I was going to undertake the process of converting mine because of this... also I think the windows look a bit better that way... See here a 1986 model Capri 25...
So was considering cutting out the round holes and routing it all out... then creating a template to semi-sink the new windows into place. The comment was the Catalina is using Dow 795 for sealant. I know more work, but might be worth it!
Just noted that picture, looks like that guy is as crazy as me 3rd boat IN for the season!
Yeah, John I read a lot of those posts too, and that probably is a good way to go to stop the leaks for good. I'll give you (or maybe others) one heads-up though. When I pulled my windows off I found that the holes in the cabin top where the windows go had delaminated on all 4 windows to a greater or lesser extent. The window inside/outside frames were serving to hold the lamination together at the windows. I suspect this was probably due to water intrusion+heat+freezing, etc. So if you have that on yours you'll probably need to do some adhesive/clamping work to get the cabin lamination to hold back together without the window frame bracketing it. I sealed mine up and they seemed to be holding together pretty well, but I put the windows back on right after removing the tape and clamps I had holding the glued lamination together. J.
wow delamination? when I drilled for my depth sounder (granted on a vertical surface) the layup was sound, in fact I was amazed at how thick it was! I think it was almost 2 inches thick! No wood core, just a solid core. Ok well I'll let you know what I find (I'm several weeks away before I look).
I will be painting our deck this winter and the windows are definitely on the list. I was going to wait till I had them apart to decide how to proceed but my thoughts were to either mount the Plexi to the outside or take the current windows apart, clean, paint and try to wet seal the glass back in place.
What type plexi is being used on the retrofits and has anyone tried using a buytl tape as the sealant?
Also, what deck paint and non skid has people had success with. I have not seen any DIY non skid jobs I have personally been impressed with so this concerns me at this time.
I've heard people have had good luck with kiwigrip, just not seen one done up close. I'd like to just repaint/nonskid the cockpit, but I really don't need any MORE projects for the list.
As for Butyl, the biggest problem I see is it's not really an adhesive. You'd have to drill/screw the windows in as well as buytl... if my understanding serves, that's a difficult thing to do to Plexi without cracking it (reverse drill, tape, etc to prevent).
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.