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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Was thinking about a recent Sprint regatta we were in. 4 short races each day. Day 1 was windward/leewards only. Day 2 was 2 windward/leeward races and 2 triangle races. Day 1 was very heavy air 18 gusting in the high 20s. We finished in the middle of the pack 5th & 6th. Sail plan used was a full(unreefed) main and the 110. Day 2 was more moderate winds. We finished with 2-firsts and 2-seconds. Sail plan was the main and the 140.
We are used to racing fractional rigs and still trying to figure out masthead rig tuning. So on the heavier day, would we have been better off reefing the main and using a bigger head sail? We were able to keep the boat on it's feet going upwind but going downwind we didn't do real well. Can't see the whole boat but I thought it was a good pic.
The biggest differences with the masthead rig are you have more power up front, and you wont get the same mast bend as you could with the frac. If you reef the main, you'll have an even more difficult time trying to flatten the sail. Depending on who's your sail loft, the "current" sail makers for the CP25 tend to cut the main pretty flat. We have actually yet to reef the main at all, and when we're too overpowered up front we've been known to race on the main alone (tho that's slower n stink, we're still upright and racing).
In my experience the CP25 does not like to go downhill w/o a spin. In conditions like that we'll fly the biggest headsail we're comfortable with, and see what the rest of the fleet does with the spin. If we lead around the W mark, we wont set - if someone behind us DOES set, we'll wait to see how they carry it before we set. Frequently they'll find it more trouble than speed, and go back to the headsail.
If we're not leading, we'll watch what the lead boat does. Same thing - if they can carry w/o too many issues we'll probably set. If they're struggling, we'll stay with the headsail and hope to out-VMG 'em.
When we go downhill with just the headsail, we'll sail quite a bit higher course than we would with a spin and go for VMG.
The main is an EP pinstripe. We flattened it as much as possible with the outhaul and the backstay was down hard. We were racing short handed that day (just 2 of us) so there was not going to be a sail change for downwind. But the thought crossed out minds more than once. Downwind was our weakness.
<font face="Times New Roman"><font size="4"><font color="navy"> Being in the biggest fleet of Capri 25s in the world (or at least in the U.S.A.) I have to tell you there are many options you can use for heavy air.
1. The responder mentioned the mast-head rig and all the power being forward when the wind goes +20. Many of our local owners will carry their 155% up to and somtimes higher than 18 knots. My choice is based on what the crew weight is. 5-6 crew topping out at 1000-1100 pounds, I can carry the 155% to 20 knots and hold on tight.
For the Main: Twist off the top of the mainsail with the traveler on down-side and sheet in as far as you can get it (real Vang-sheeting). You trim the main with the traveler at that point and release the mainsheet only if you can't stay on your tack angle (when the healing just won't stop and you start to auto-tack). It will flog some, but Bernoulli's will use the last 12-18" of the main's leech to create even flatter lifting force to prevent heal (and go forward more) like a plane's flaps when they are retracted closing the slot between the main wing (head sail) and flaps (mainsail).
2. If you want more main performance and a little easier to handle headsail, reduce the head sail first.
In our local fleet, most owners have re-cut 155% that is flatten and the forward edge is cut down and the sail's leech is hollowed out, so that is more a 145%-147% genoa. This is the perfect sail for 15-25 knots with a heavy crew. Less heal and you get to use the main more. The original sail plan had a 135% for the number two. If you are sailing with an under weight crew it would be a good choice, but you can't punch through the waves and if it lightens your under powered and toast.
3. When all heck breaks out (>20 knots constant), a 110% jib is excellent if it is cut to reach around the shrouds to the front car/block on the deck track next to the doghouse. For the 100% or 90% you need the doghouse tracks to close the slot and trim by cross-sheeting to the doghouse winches. At the heavier air the 110% gives you plenty of power for wave action, and allows the main to be the "main" propulsion system. Once again, main sheet is to the max and use the traveler to steer the boat (no tiller needed unless you get headed or arrive at a mark or obstruction).
4. Reef the Main -- Not anymore... I did that once racing in winds over 20+ and had a gust of 35+ with a spinnaker up and wiped out with a round-down and almost lost my boat too. (YouTube video link below).
The reason is simple - balance of power on the mast on both sides of the center of effort. If the main was fully up, it would have balanced the center of effort the spinnaker created. We were at a very thin line of balance and the full main would have given us more room to work.
For non-racing and no spinnaker, reefing is great for cruising and comfort.
5. Single-handed racing -- I do that a lot when I don't have a crew available, so I usually select one size sail down (if there is wind at all). 4-12 =155%, 12-15 =147%, 15-25 =110%, >25 Main-only.
6. Spin vs Headsail downwind -- One thing I see a lot of sailors forget about is using the spinnaker pole with topping-lift and downhaul (or forguy) for downwind with a jib/genoa in a big blow.
Even if you are using the 155% the pole is 10' long and will with the T-lift and DH will hold the headsail wing-on-wing. I've caught many in my fleet using the pole that way and it allows you sail a wider angle of polars for more speed options...Just remember you can't have both the pole and main boom on the same sides... jibe the pole just like you do with a spinnaker.
One last thing to consider -- Keel shape:
Factory keel is diamond shaped and does not go upwind well, but goes downwind very fast. The original foil is NACA-64-012.
A faired keel should use the NACA-0015 foil which will fit the trailing edge to the original max chord position without any fill material. From the old max chord to the new max chord further forward you get to add filler to really teardrop the forward surface area. Your boats performance change will be about 3-5 degree higher on the tacking angles (tack angle was 39-38 degrees, now at 35-34 degrees). Unfortunately, you can not add lead beads to the filler for more righting moment. Just four-five gallons worth of fairing material in the foil on the forward surfaces... but lift is lift.
I have an article to release soon to "Mainsheet" on how to do your own fairing and how to determine what foil you currently have and what new foil choices you have based on the current foil.
You were able to retrieve it! I couldn't get it to post. I can get images from photobucket to post but not flickr.
That particular picture was from the last day of the Fall series. The wind was steady 25-30 with 9 recorded gusts above 35. We took 2nd in both races and 1st in the series.
Hey Mark, if you want a reviewer for that article, I'd be interested in seeing it while my boat's out of the water! Our Frostbite series started two weeks ago, but the boat's on the hard for its annual bottom touch up. John Maddalozzo. maddalozzo ut gmail dut com
Mark, thanks for your tips. We race short handed alot. Usually just 2 or 3 of us. I'm looking forward to the Spring season. There are several boats gunning for us because we won the Spring & Fall series.
Also, if you need an idea for another article - how about something about accessing the bilge and the "hidden" bilge issue (with pictures). I was reading about it on your club's email list in relation to the issue with the zebra mussels.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.