Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
After many drawings and lots of trash I made the decision on our electrical setup and panel location. I did not want to construct anything that took away cabin or storage space, but still wanted access to all areas of the boat. So here is the result of my labor. The one thing that I have not done is added the piping were the cut was made. Even though I made the cut on my table saw using the flat edge of the panel you can see the flat edge was not square so I will have to do some plaining on this edge. I still have to install the shore power plug, the 110 volt plugs in the cabin and the two golf cart batteries under the v-berth. Design an layout took the most time as usual. Now on to the tax man and getting ready the 53rd Annual Mug Race. Sure hope the Wind God blesses us this year.
Frog and The General C250, Pretty Penny II, #743 FLEET 25 Coronado 15, M-Cube, #3316
The wood panel that is installed above the battery switch in the first two photos... is it a shelf you put in? If so, what fasteners did you use and how did you attach it on the hull side?
The wood panel is a shelf install with 3/4" #10 ovalheaded screws into the cockpit floor and on the hull side I made a 3/4 x 3/4" cleat that attaches to the hull with 1&1/4" #10 ovalheaded screws. The cleat is beveled 15 deg. on top to allow for the hull curvature.
Dan, did not make the trip to CA. Had to go back to Ark. do to wife's family illness. May have to make the trip again soon if things do not improve. Still plan on making the trip to CA., but do not know time frame yet.
Great job and love the location of the installation... are you considering/planning/willing to publish the wiring diagram for the installation. My electrical skills are zero/nil Henk
Looks good Jerry , You could use that vinal bead moulding ,thats around the whole panal, For the seam you cut . (sailrite.com) has that stuff. I thought about cutting mine in the center of the access panel. I would like to put Arlens open cable stearing in .But I think I will have to move the holding tank around. How was it to pull it out . Mine was pretty hard , I gave up , before it became to big of a project.
Nice work Jerry. I like it! This would make a great Tech Tip. Are you going to leave the 24 battery there for the motor when you install the two 6 volts?
After I complete the wiring I will put a diagram together that is readable by others. The present one is a group of redraws with whiteout. I should finish the install when on the hard for bottom work. Got to do somehting while the paint dries. I did not remove the holding tank for my install and I am pretty sure you would not have to remove it to install Aryln's openwire system. I would suspect the only thing you would have to remove is the side and back panel and then the battery to accomplish it. I do intend to leave the GP24 were it sits. With the two water tanks, the two batteries and the other items stowed in the v-berth, I figure the weight forward should be just about right to bring PennyII on her lines without adding sand bags or anything else. The main thing I like about the location is that all the wire runs are from 3-8 feet so I can use smaller cable on the runs. All the runs are done with 10 gauge including the 8 foot run of two power cables to the switch panel. The only big wire run I will have is the one from the two cart batteries to the battery selector and the distribution buss. I figure 1AWG for the run which would give a 2.01% voltage drop over 40 feet with a constant 20 AMP draw. The odds are a 20 amp constant draw on our boats is very slim unless you are running an inverter, which I don't plan to do.
Jerry, I like the way you cut the bulkhead to retain easy removal of the section needed to maintain holding tank.
I also left the group 24 battery when adding two six volt golf carts in the V berth and wired the motor to it so that starting is always from it (rope starting is easy anyway). I used #6 between the V-berth batteries and the switch with the only concern that if someone were charging with a strictly regulated charger installed aft, it might leave the batteries undercharged slightly.
As far as supplying power, #6 had not been any problem and I concurr with you that two #10 runs from the switch to the galley panel are sufficient.
As to the converter, I have a small one with its pigtail hooked up to a tripple fuse block right at the golf cart batteries. A second fuse of course protects the run to the aft switch and one spare.
<font color="blue"><font size="4"><font face="Comic Sans MS">I used #6 on the v-berth and #10 wire to the panel also. No problems. paulj C250 #719</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size4"></font id="blue">
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.