The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I got the one for the main installed. I put it centered with the mast about 3" towards the bow. When I drilled through the core it felt solid enough, but I could tell the inner deck had delaminated. I put the screws through with fender washers on the bottom side. It all pulled together nicely.
I ran a rope through it and guess I probably pulled up with a 100lbs of for or so. The deck didn't pop, but did flex up about an 1/8". I'm thinking I might have core problems. I wouldn't expect the deck to flex so much.
I have some stainless stock left and thought about putting a 3" x 6" backing plate down instead of the fender washers.
I guess getting to the question, is that part of the deck strong enough to attach deck fittings to?
The "delamination" you speak of is probably a relativey normal void between the deck core and the inner liner, which is a separate molding. I found as much as 1/4", maybe more, in some areas. When you drilled through the core, how did it feel and what residue did you see on the drill bit?
This potential flexing is another good reason to drill a larger hole, fill with thickened epoxy, and then re-drill through the middle of the epoxy for the size of the bolt. That protects the core from water intrusion, and creates a "compression sleeve" between the hardware and the backer (washer or whatever). Some people use penetrating epoxy inside the hole before adding the thickened stuff, to further protect the wood. The upward flexing also is trying to break the seal on whatever you used to bed the eyepad--another reason the deck plate is the recommended solution.
I was trying to get away with not pulling the deck plate up. That and the ropes will work out better if I get the pulleys out from the mast a bit. I'm running both halyards down the same side of the boat. I don't have the mast plate to size it up with, but it looks like the electrical connector and vang hardware would probably be in the way given my routing.
The separation at the inner liner was minimal. Not really a void, but I could feel it deflect under the drill after I got through the core.
The flexing isn't just at the spot. I took a good stance from side to side, ~30", and then pulled up with a good deal of force. Maybe more than 100lbs. The whole top deflects. Its hard to gauge from my perspective, but it doesn't deflect more than 1/8" at the most. I put more force on it than I ever have the halyard. I stepped around the same area and can't feel any week points.
I know that things in a boat flex and bend so that doesn't concern me so much if that is the norm for that area.
So if I don't break down and go with the mast plate, I guess the next steps are drilling out the hole a bit more and fill in any void between it and the core. Do that and add a larger backing plate.
Pearl came with deck mounted hardware, but the plate under the mast is really the way to go. Putting fewer holes in the boat is always a good thing. I go with what I've got because it works and the money for a bunch of new blocks can go toward other things.
Think about the forces. A deck plate makes the halyard tension simply compress the mast against itself because the plate is under the mast. I have always thought deck mounted turning blocks for halyards are a very bad idea AND they put holes in your boat. When I have a hole I wish was not there I simply put a bolt through it and call it good. You have the chance to use your new holes as a way to inject some git rot to fix the flex. Then get a plate. I bought mine directly from Garhauer with no holes so I could drill my own to match the pattern on my mast step, those holes vary at least year to year if not boat to boat. It is a great excuse to buy a drill press.
Yep. Went ahead and ordered the plate. I figure I can make the lines work somehow. Its too cold for Git Rot, but I'll put that on the list for spring. I have sufficient butyl tape on the fitting for now.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.