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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've got an old Nissan 8hp 2-stroke that is generally pretty reliable. I've done some basic maintenance on it over the years including the impeller, spark plug and the gear oil. The motor and the gas (which wasn't new to begin with) have been sitting for about 6 months. When I started it up it ran kind of rough, and seemed OK at higher RPMs, but there was a fair amount of white smoke, and it would die at lower idle. Water was spitting out as usual. I suspect that old gas is my issue. I will replace the gas and I bought some Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer. Any other advice? I'd like my next trip to the marina to include more sailing than engine maintenance, but need to trust the outboard first. Thank you -
It sounds like the carburetor jet is partially clogged. I'd suggest you try running carburetor cleaner through it. It worked well for my two antique cars that were acting the same way, but it doesn't always. If not, the carb needs to be taken apart and cleaned. There are usually youtube videos that show how to do it, or you can hire it done. Even if the carb cleaner works, it has to run quite awhile, perhaps an hour or two.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
If the gas line from the tank is not new (more that 3 - 5 years) it may be suffering from rot due to the e-gas, which corrodes the lining. After getting our 10 year old carb rebuilt, we also got a new tank and fuel lines. Our yard also recommended an ounce of Marvel Mystery Oil be added to each 3 gallon tank, along with the stabilizers. So far so good.
I would strongly suggest disassembling and cleaning the carb. It is an easy job. Buy a spray can of carb cleaner and spray everything heavily. Spray all orifices generously. I would not put fine wires into the the jets, the solvent will do the job. All that you generally have to do is remove the carb. Removing the fuel bowl will give you access the the fuel nozzle/jet and a few other orifices to spray.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
I put new gas in the tank at the beginning of the year and I try not to run it very low. Try to keep it at least 3/4 filled.
I use 4-stroke so I just put the old gas in my car at the end of the year, not sure how to dispose of 2-stroke gas.
PO of my boat told me they had a lot of problems with the motor. Lots of stalling, issues at idle, etc.. I bought a new line (previous had to be quite a few years old, the thing was falling apart), new tank, and new gas. Only issue I had was regular maintenance: I had to adjust the idle.
Sea Foam is what I use to stabilize since I do use ethanol gas.
Try to use ethanol free gas whenever possible, and add a additive like Star Tron enzyme for moisture. My friend owns a boat shop and said 80% of the engine problems are from ethanol in fuel. Add long term stabilization at the end of the year, or get rid of the fuel in a tiny tank. You can pour 2 stroke gas into a car, it will be diluted so much it won't hurt.
Erik Cornelison 6th Generation Professional Sailor, First Gen Submarine Sailor. 1986 Standard Rig SW. #5234
Edited by - Erik Cornelison on 04/27/2018 06:42:15
Thank you guys for the suggestions. I will work on the carb too. As for disposing the stale gas, I read conflicting accounts online. Some people said even a little bit of mixed gas in a vehicle with an oxygen sensor will cause problems. Others said no issue with small amounts. I think I will try to use it in my lawnmower. ~3 gallons should last all summer!
The lawn mower is 2stroke also? Mixing it at a gallon per fill up in the car won't harm anything. Mixing it into the quart of gas in the mower and you might be cleaning it's carb also. Just a FYI, Most 2cycle oil has fuel stabilizers in it.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
Sticking with ethanol free gas is OK, but Mercury"s official position is that ethanol has the benefit of absorbing small amounts of moisture so it can pass through the motor without problem. I still use my original pump bulb and primer bulb (I do keep spares on board) and have never used ethanol free gas. Long term storage, greater than 60 days, is a source of potential problems, primarily in boats with permanent fuel tanks. I avoid them by using two 3 gallon tanks and fill tank 2 when tank 1 gets below half or Im planning a long cruise. I also run the fuel out of the engine after use. That might not matter, but it doesn't hurt. Stabilizers generally contain alcohol, often ethanol. Seafoam contains isopropyl, and some others are made with methanol. Regular maintenance, including replacing fuel line occasionally, is the key to engine to engine reliability.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
This sounds like a problem with low RPM fuel delivery as the problem goes away at higher RPM.
You might need to remove and dissemble the carb, drop the carb body (no plastic parts!) in carb cleaner for a bit, and then blow it out with compressed air to get the Ethanol snot out of it.
But before you do that, try adjusting your low speed jet idle mix screw (toward a leaner mix) until the engine just starts to die (it might rev up a bit before it starts to die), then turn the screw back the other way an eighth to a quarter of a turn.
Like someone else said, run the carb dry when you're done using your motor (unless you'll be starting it again the next day). Just disconnect the fuel line and let it idle until it dies.
Like someone else said, keep your ethanol fuel good with StarBrite additive.
One other thing I don't do is try keep fuel over 60 days by adding stabilizer. I empty all tanks before long storage, even my big mower. I used to use Starbrite, but since they generally just add some light oils and more alcohol I don't see the point. They certainly won't hurt in normal use if you believe in them and refill your tanks once or twice a season.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
...I used to use Starbrite, but since they generally just add some light oils and more alcohol I don't see the point.
That might describe things like Stabil, but I don't think it includes Startron (the blue stuff), which I recall is an enzyme treatment in a naptha base. It's pretty well thought of for in-season treatment, where Stabil Marine (green) is good for season-to-season protection--I use both in my built-in tank that I don't have a way to empty. (But mine is a discussion for a different board.)
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Neither Stabil nor Startron contain alcohols, just naphtha and proprietary organics with enzymatic activity. Mercury's stabilizer is mostly just an expensive jug of isopropyl alcohol. Practical Sailor did a comprehensive evaluation of gas and diesel stabilizers a few years ago that is available in their archives. My filter/water separator and respect for shelf life with E-10 keep me comfortable. As you said, big, permanent fuel tanks are another issue and doing what you do would be overkill for our little portable tanks. For everybody else, its your boat, motor, and tank and do whatever makes you comfortable.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.