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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 General Sailing Forum
 Leaking Jabsco
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yachtsea
1st Mate

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USA
73 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/24/2018 :  08:15:28  Show Profile
Hi,

I waited until winterization to take a picture but I have a head leak at the base and wondering if this is a common gasket or I'm looking for any insight really. The leak is not terrible so it would be helpful to have an idea (and part in hand) before removing the head to inspect/replace. Also, does anyone know if those mount bolts in the base are nuts that need to be captured or if they are mounted receptacles that remain in place when bolts are removed?

Thanks so much. I have a photo shared and the link below.

Carl

https://photos.app.goo.gl/iK3eSNUOBEwWPZku2

Edited by - yachtsea on 04/24/2018 08:18:36

JB
Navigator

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USA
110 Posts

Response Posted - 04/24/2018 :  10:25:24  Show Profile
The fitting pictured is the clean out and if I remember correctly, it uses an O ring. Also check to see if the hoses are leaking and the fluid dripped down to that location. If you pumped most of the fluid out, the level should not be high enough to leak at the bowl to base gasket.

1988 C25 Wing Keel Std Rig Tohatsu 9.9 Tiller Steering and 2003 C250 Wing Keel Std Rig Inboard Diesel Wheel Steering
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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 04/24/2018 :  10:58:46  Show Profile
On both my boats the bolts that hold down the head are lag bolts. They screw into the plywood.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore
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yachtsea
1st Mate

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USA
73 Posts

Response Posted - 04/24/2018 :  11:03:59  Show Profile
Ah good, that IS a clean out and I was hoping an O-ring was in there. I'll start there. It does seem odd re: water level. I didn't leave fluid in the bowl but I wonder if something else is amiss. The pump seems to be less than fully effective (cavitation) when exercised. Now that there is sunlight in WI, we shall see.

Thanks for the info. Generic Heartfelt appreciation to the forum's existence.

Carl
quote:
Originally posted by JB

The fitting pictured is the clean out and if I remember correctly, it uses an O ring. Also check to see if the hoses are leaking and the fluid dripped down to that location. If you pumped most of the fluid out, the level should not be high enough to leak at the bowl to base gasket.

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yachtsea
1st Mate

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USA
73 Posts

Response Posted - 04/24/2018 :  11:05:11  Show Profile
Hi Steve,

Thanks. I was wondering what the next step would have been to hear/feel a rattle approximately the size of a nut and maybe washer. So far, it appears people think more about maintenance on boats than they do on relatively new cars.

Carl

quote:
Originally posted by Steve Milby

On both my boats the bolts that hold down the head are lag bolts. They screw into the plywood.

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JB
Navigator

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USA
110 Posts

Response Posted - 04/24/2018 :  11:07:43  Show Profile
You're in WI, so am I, how did you like the April 14 snow? We were supposed to lift-in on the 22nd.

1988 C25 Wing Keel Std Rig Tohatsu 9.9 Tiller Steering and 2003 C250 Wing Keel Std Rig Inboard Diesel Wheel Steering
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yachtsea
1st Mate

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USA
73 Posts

Response Posted - 04/24/2018 :  11:12:31  Show Profile
I did not like it nor did my native Californian wife. Have you ever seen a disappointment in its purest form? I have, it's horrifying, particularly when you know you're going to be sharing space with it for two or three days.

Our spring cleanup was scheduled for the 21st and now we are shooting for haul in on the 5th but I'm still getting reports of 18-20in of ice. Tough to put docks in and get moorings squared away. So, I trailered her home and she is getting some much-deserved attention (the boat).

Edited by - yachtsea on 04/24/2018 11:13:43
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hbushey
1st Mate

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USA
29 Posts

Response Posted - 04/24/2018 :  13:13:02  Show Profile
Had this exact kind of leak from our manual Jabsco head. Discovered it was from loose clamps on the 1 1/2” hose connection to the Joker valve housing.

The head has sinc been replaced with a new electric one... Yes, an electric head on a C-25...

Heather and Scott
“Respite”
1989 C-25 TR/WK
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glivs
Admiral

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USA
822 Posts

Response Posted - 04/24/2018 :  18:55:28  Show Profile
Carl...as to cavitation. Be sure to add a lubricant in the bowl (mineral oil or Head Lube), pump a little through and then let everything sit for a day or more to keep internal seals from drying out. If the head has much age you may also want to open the pump (4 screws) and smear a little marine grade silicon grease (not Vasoline or petroleum-based grease) on the seals. If the pump still cavitates then replace the joker valve at base of the pump. If needed, the maker of your head should have a schematic online. Good luck.

Gerry & Leslie; Malletts Bay, VT
"Great Escape" 1989 C-25 SR/WK #5972
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yachtsea
1st Mate

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USA
73 Posts

Response Posted - 04/25/2018 :  07:03:20  Show Profile
That's a neat idea for the marine/non-dino product on the working seals. I suppose the cleanout o-ring could get twisted/compromised upon installation of the cap; however, lube on o-rings/packings for static mated surfaces shouldn't typically be necessary. Can't hurt right? I will use sparingly and check back in.

Thanks much,

Carl

quote:
Originally posted by glivs

Carl...as to cavitation. Be sure to add a lubricant in the bowl (mineral oil or Head Lube), pump a little through and then let everything sit for a day or more to keep internal seals from drying out. If the head has much age you may also want to open the pump (4 screws) and smear a little marine grade silicon grease (not Vasoline or petroleum-based grease) on the seals. If the pump still cavitates then replace the joker valve at base of the pump. If needed, the maker of your head should have a schematic online. Good luck.

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JB
Navigator

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USA
110 Posts

Response Posted - 04/25/2018 :  12:20:30  Show Profile
Some RV antifreeze brands contain alcohol, which can damage rubber seals and parts. I've had some O rings that were only a few years old exhibit cracks and loss of pliability.

1988 C25 Wing Keel Std Rig Tohatsu 9.9 Tiller Steering and 2003 C250 Wing Keel Std Rig Inboard Diesel Wheel Steering
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yachtsea
1st Mate

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USA
73 Posts

Response Posted - 04/26/2018 :  04:58:07  Show Profile
Update: I ran three gallons of water through the head. Little different set up, the previous owner wanted to ensure how much water entered the holding tank so he has jugs and moves the supply hose from jug to jug...anyway, I put some mineral oil into a jug of water and ran it. I'm seeing fresh water going in, better resistance (less caviation) feeling but I also am seeing a significant amount of black inorganic matter going down the sides of the bowl. They look like pieces of rubber so I wonder if I have a joker valve that is deterioriating. Leaks are now appearing around the base, curiously no longer near the cleanout, so I think I'm either in the market to remove the entire fixture and open up for repair, or, replace entirely.

Are there any noteworthy benefits/drawbacks with replacing the entire unit with a new similar model (this model is pretty basic)i.e. new technology (still plan on going manual), better operation, less maintenance, bidet? Jk. Not crazy about discarding an entire toilet but I'm less crazy about tshooting one days before haul in.

Thanks.

Carl

Edited by - yachtsea on 04/26/2018 04:59:59
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 04/26/2018 :  07:14:37  Show Profile
Regarding pump operation, if your intake shares a thru-hull with the sink drain, a stopper in the drain sometimes helps the head pump to draw.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 04/26/2018 07:15:37
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hbushey
1st Mate

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USA
29 Posts

Response Posted - 04/26/2018 :  18:07:54  Show Profile
I just got done installing a Jabsco Lite Flush electric head this past weekend. We got it for to reasons. One was the manual Jabsco was leaking from a crack in the pump housing, so we needed to replace it. Second is, we have kids, and wanted a head that was simple to operate. So I pulled a 12V run from the breaker panel, behind the dinette, and to the back of the head. Instructions stated a 20 amp breaker is required, so it pulls a good amount of juice when it flushes, and 8 gauge wire was used. The plumbing connections were pretty simple, one hose from the seacock to the head and one connection to the discharge hose. The bolt holes lined up exactly with the ones from the old head. I’d say the hardest part was getting the 30 year old discharge hose to bend and flex enough to connect it to the head.

It has a self contained water intake pump and a macerator discharge pump. It flushes pretty powerfully with the push of a little footswitch at the base of the head, and a pump cycle lasts about 7 seconds. It uses about a quart of water per flushing cycle, so you really have to watch overfilling the holding tank. Thankfully the marina we’ll be keeping the boat at this summer has a pumpout station

Heather and Scott
“Respite”
1989 C-25 TR/WK
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yachtsea
1st Mate

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USA
73 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2018 :  12:41:37  Show Profile
That sounds like a good system for the traffic you described. Ours won't warrant the cost as our lake is smaller and we are not entertaining many. I'm glad you reported that the holes lined up. I just put the dinette's soft latches on so four holes there and then I ordered the power pop-top gas cylinders, some drilling there, by the time I get done, my boat will light enough that I could haul her out with my Subaru.

I'm looking at my pictures again and thinking this might be a compact bowl and then I'm reading that the regularly-sized bowl and the compact bowls leverage the same mechanics and therefore, the same footprint/holes. That said, I do not see why a regular bowl wouldn't fit in the head.

Thanks. Hodges has both models for 141 which is about the best I can find. I'm seeing some devout Raritan fans out there on the bigger vessels, mostly due to claims that the pump assemblies are more durable and more enjoyable to use. I digress.

Carl
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hbushey
1st Mate

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USA
29 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2018 :  20:48:43  Show Profile
We got the electric head through Hodges as well. Was the cheapest we could find.

Heather and Scott
“Respite”
1989 C-25 TR/WK
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yachtsea
1st Mate

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USA
73 Posts

Response Posted - 05/09/2018 :  09:09:08  Show Profile
Hi,

Just to close out the topic (for me anyway), I wound up with a new replacement head, manual Twist n' Lock for under 150 shipped. Same mount holes and elbow is tunable with a couple of screws loosened. I'm starting to question whether there should be a vent loop between the head discharge and the holding tank on the other side of the bulkhead beneath the dinette seat. It's a straight shot, possibly uphill towards the tank. We'll see how things go after I get the macerator working (again).

Thanks all,

Carl
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