Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am new to the forum and pretty new to sailing I bought a C25 Fixed Keel with Tall Rig last summer. The PO had installed a standard rig main sail, which had a tear in it once I purchased the boat. He provided a brand new Ulman main. The new main is labeled for the tall rig. My question is how high should the boom be off the top of the boat? I have it only around 2 ft off the top, and it seems like it could stand to be lower to tighten up the sail with the halyard tight.
My second issue is my forestay broke as well and I need to replace it. I have a furler and I ordered the c25 forestay replacement from Catlina Direct. I plan to climb the mast to replace it. Is this feasible?
Welcome to the forum! Collectively, our members have owned and sailed C25s, Capris and C250s for what might add up to thousands of years. Individually, none of us knows everything, but together we represent a considerable storehouse of knowsledge that can be very helpful. Feel free to use it.
quote:My question is how high should the boom be off the top of the boat? I have it only around 2 ft off the top, and it seems like it could stand to be lower to tighten up the sail with the halyard tight.
My C25 was also a tall rig. Assuming the new mainsail is the correct size for a tall rig C25, when raising the sail, my practice was to raise it all the way to the top of the mast, and then to use the downhaul to apply the appropriate amount of tension for the strength of wind on that day. (I believe the length of the luff on the C-25 TR is 27.66 ft.) If the length of the luff of your sail is 27.66' or less, then your boom will be within the designer's parameters when the sail is correctly raised and tensioned.
quote:My second issue is my forestay broke as well and I need to replace it. I have a furler and I ordered the c25 forestay replacement from Catlina Direct. I plan to climb the mast to replace it. Is this feasible?
I've never seen it done that way, but, if the jib halyard is in sound condition, you could attach it to a forward cleat, tension it, and use it to replace the function of the forestay (to hold up the mast) while you replace the forestay. I'd be a little reluctant to have a heavy man go up a C25 tall rig mast. I'd be less concerned if his weight was around 175 lbs or less.
My preference, however, would be to lower the mast to replace the forestay. It isn't difficult, especially if you have 2-3 strong helpers.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
I agree on dropping the mast. It's the safest way and you may find other problems like the pin for the forstay might not want to come out or the sheaves need replacing. Also you can replace bulbs and spreader tips. It's just easier to do some maintenance with the mast down.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
No forestay? Drop the mast! For 200 lbs. (?) at the mast-head, a halyard fixed to a cleat is unnecessarily high-risk, I'd say. And you'd want both halyards to make the trip--the second one as a safety.
Also, here's an example of where it's helpful to know the vintage (plus rig and keel) of your boat. Tightening the "luff" of the main can be done with the downhaul (from the boom gooseneck to a cleat on the mast) where the gooseneck slides in the mast slot. But later vintages have the gooseneck bolted to the mast, so hardening the luff is done with the halyard--on a winch if you really want it tight.
I suggest you go into your Profile (above) and create a "Signature" that identifies you and at least the year, rig and keel (as in "1985 SR/FK") automatically on each post. You'll see lots of examples here.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Thanks for the input everyone. Ran into another snag with the furler. The piece of joining metal between the foil extrusions about 2/3 of the way up was broken when the forestay broke.
I am kind of in a spot where I am thinking of two options: trying to repair the furler, or removing it and going with hank on foresails. The furler is from Hood.
Can you convert a furling headsail to a hankon? Ive been searching and read people with opinions for and against furlers.
Another aspect is budget, I do not have a huge budget, so a new furler is out of the question.
Just remove the furler totally if you want to go back to Hank on but have you tried Hood or a Hood dealer for the broken part? Also is the head sail set up with luff tape? If it is then you will have to have it converted back to hanks. I'm guessing a foil connector would cost less than converting the sail if that's all that is broken.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
A Hood furler is very good quality. I'd recommend that you repair it.
If you just want to cruise and pleasure sail and race it casually, you will probably find a roller furler satisfactory. With a roller furling jib, you no longer have to hank on your jib every time you want to sail, or fold and bag it afterward. If the wind pipes up while you're sailing, you don't have to change to a smaller sail. Just roll it up a bit. People who have them love their furling jibs.
Some folks claim you can't shape furling sails as perfectly as hank on sails, and that's true, but the difference is really pretty slight, and won't really matter much to you if you aren't a serious racer.
"Back in the day," we used to think you couldn't use deck sweeping racing sails with a roller furler, but we were wrong. If you want to race it competitively, you just need to add inexpensive hardware to be able to fly a racing sail. You simply fly the racing sail in the foil, and add a piece of hardware to attach it's tack to.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
I ended up figuring out I think it is a Hood SL 700 furler. I found the installation manual and it looks to be an easy piece to replace. Just needs two small pieces and 2 rivets. I guess I will see how easy it is lol. Anyone had experience with the Hood SL series furlers? The old forestay wire is stuck inside the furler, i cant pull it out from the bottom, or push it back up.
Tim Pompanette LLC now owns Hood furlers look there for parts. In the manual you will see Luff Bearings that fit inside each Extrusion. If the headstay frayed where it broke then it might not pull through the bearing. You will have to disassemble the Extrusions in order to install it on a new Headstay.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.