Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
We do not have hard freezes in central Texas and my boat stays in the water year round. I also sail through the winter. I will appreciate any advice might come my way regarding being prepared for the colder weather. I am particularly interested in advice for draining the fresh water tank.
Steve Digby 1983 Catalina 25 Standard Rig Fin Keel
I didn't use my water tank on my C25, but do use it on my C&C 35. At the end of the season, I pump the C&Cs tank as dry as I can, pour a little RV antifreeze in the tank, and then pump it through the water lines, until it comes out the faucet.
I usually keep my Cal 25 in the water in Annapolis during the winter. My main concerns are to keep water from getting inside the boat, keeping it from freezing hard in the bilge, and preventing the cockpit drains from getting clogged.
I seal up leaks and cover the coach roof with a heavy duty tarp to keep water out of the boat. I pour antifreeze in the bilge.
I stick a small piece of aluminum window screen, rolled up, into each cockpit drain. The screen helps prevent the drains and hoses from being clogged by dirt and leaves.
I also winterize the head and the outboard, of course.
To deter mold, I turn the interior cushions on the side, so that air can circulate around most of their surface as much as possible.
Since I'm at home in Ohio, I can't check on it, but a friend checks it for me when he checks his boat, and, if a major storm blows through, he adjusts my dock lines as needed.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
If your tank has a removable "hatch" on your water tank you could use a small battery powered pump to pump the water over the side using a garden hose. You might also be able to remove a fill or vent line and fit some type of hose in the tank and use the pump mentioned above to empty the tank.
Here in Texas we don't normally have to worry about the lake freezing and with the water tank at or slightly below the waterline it would take a prolonged hard freeze to freeze the water in the tank.
If you have shore-power you could even use a small electric ceramic heater or even a 60 watt light bulb placed low in the boat. That would keep the temp in the boat above freezing. Just be sure they are placed securely so they cannot fall over or against something that would catch fire.
For momentary freezes, your main concern is your plumbing fixtures, which would be the first things to freeze (and break). At the least, I would pump the tank empty through the sink, and keep pumping until it appears the lines and faucets are clear. The plastic tank and lines can withstand freezing of a small quantity of water. Putting some RV antifreeze into the emptied tank and pumping that through would add protection. A marine head needs its own routine--mine is different from most, so I won't prescribe. A porta-potti is obvious.
Your outboard should be fine--the water should have drained from the block by gravity. But winter or spring is a good time to give it some annual love--lower unit and engine block oil, etc. In salt water, I change the thermostat annually--not necessary in fresh.
Some water in the bilge probably won't be anything to worry about--it will stay about the temperature of the water outside the hull.
Merry Christmas!
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
If you have pressurized water, open a faucet until the tank is dry.
If you have manually operating faucets, pump them until the tank is dry. Of if you have a bilge pump and are not stressed about having a wet bilge, drain the tank into the bilge and pump it out with your bilge pump.
To prevent mold and bacteria growth in the fresh water system, dump $20 worth of bottom shelf vodka into the fresh water tank, and then open or pump a faucet until the vodka comes out.
Condensation/Freezing
If you have shore power, you could run a small electric heater to keep the air temp above the condensation point. Many (like me) do this but ABYC is against it. West Marine sells a heater specifically for this purpose.
Besides being more expensive than RV antifreeze, vodka can degrade the seals in your pumps, and the alcohol in it will evaporate rapidly, leaving just water that will freeze. Similarly, watch what antifreeze you pick--some cheaper ones (by about $1/gallon) are now glycol/alcohol blends, while the slightly more expensive ones are probably propylene glycol with no alcohol--check the labels. The former can be corrosive to metals and rubber, while the latter actually protects from corrosion and degradation, and does not evaporate.
Bleach (1 oz. per 10 gallons) is much better than alcohol at killing and preventing mold and algae.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.