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 what does a correct outhaul look like?
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rbpc25
1st Mate

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USA
86 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/01/2016 :  05:25:39  Show Profile
new-to-me C25
no outhaul rigging at all
anyone have a photo of what it should look like?
thanks!

Rolf in MA
C25 #4959

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 07/01/2016 :  06:39:33  Show Profile
Here's a photo from the archives. This would be a little pricey, but it gives you an idea of what you need generally. The blocks in the photo look a little bigger than necessary to me. Good quality smaller blocks should work. As a simple alternative, you could attach a small single snatch block with a becket at the outboard end of the boom, and a small single snatch block at the clew of the mainsail. Attach 1/4" line to the becket. Then run it forward through the block at the clew. Then run it aft through the sheave of the block at the end of the boom. Then run it forward about 12" or 15" to a small cam or clam cleat attached to the side of the boom. That's a simple, functional arrangement. If you want more mechanical advantage, you can add more sheaves.

Looking at the photo, you can see that the outhaul is adjusted about as taut as it can be. Still, the foot of the sail doesn't appear to be as flat as it should be if sailing in strong winds. In other words, that system doesn't appear to have adequate range of adjustability. Smaller, simpler blocks would enable the foot of the mainsail to be adjusted flatter.


Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

Edited by - Steve Milby on 07/01/2016 08:41:59
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5234 Posts

Response Posted - 07/01/2016 :  14:06:07  Show Profile
I used a small block (maybe $20?) for 5/16" line. I mounted it to smaller inner hole on the boom-end tang.
I also mounted a jam cleat (maybe $15?) onto the side of the boom just about where the shadow of the line appears.
I mounted it by drilling two pilot holes and screwed in two stainless self-tapping screws. I used some no-corrode on the threads.
I could have added a 2nd block to get a 3:1 ratio but that's largely overkill. I put a big honking monkey fist on the end of the line to make it easy to pull on it.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT
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Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 07/01/2016 :  15:00:33  Show Profile
From Catalina Direct:




I installed something similar with parts from WM. The line on the port side of the boat went to a jam cleat about a foot short of the mast. Some have led it to the cockpit.



Davy J


2005 Gemini 105Mc
PO 1987 C25 #5509 SR/SK
Tampa Bay
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rbpc25
1st Mate

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USA
86 Posts

Response Posted - 07/01/2016 :  15:07:20  Show Profile
^ ah, that's nice

Rolf in MA
C25 #4959
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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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3994 Posts

Response Posted - 07/01/2016 :  17:24:36  Show Profile
Unless you have a loose footed main a fancy outhaul is practically worthless on a bolt rope foot for sail adjustments.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound


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Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts

Response Posted - 07/01/2016 :  18:28:16  Show Profile  Visit Bladeswell's Homepage
Hello Again,

I haven't used mine yet but copied the one shown above from CD. I am lucky enough to live near Garhoure, (pretty sure I spelled their name wrong) and bought the parts frome them. The only difference being my cheek block is a double rather than a single so that it will also serve my topping lift.

Bladeswell

C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.
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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 07/01/2016 :  21:05:56  Show Profile
Using 1/4" or 5/16" line and blocks to match (29mm or slightly smaller), single block with becket at the clew, a double block at the end of the boom, line running from becket through block sheaves forward to a cleat on the boom or led back to the cockpit. Agree, if you have a boltrope footed main, no need to get real fancy.

DavidP
1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52
PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess"
Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN
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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3312 Posts

Response Posted - 07/02/2016 :  08:17:24  Show Profile
If you are going to cleat the line on the boom, take it far enough forward so that, even with the boom deployed all the way you can still reach it to adjust.
On TSU I used 2 small double blocks, one attached to the clew and the other to the topping lift shackle. It gave us tremendous mechanical advantage so we could adjust even in the heavies winds.

Derek Crawford
Chief Measurer C25-250 2008
Previous owner of "This Side UP"
1981 C-25 TR/FK #2262 Used to have an '89 C22 #9483, "Downsized"
San Antonio, Texas
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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 07/02/2016 :  12:34:27  Show Profile
I use an internal system, 2:1 is perfect. I place the exit block at the front of the boom so I can run the line down the mast and back to the cockpit.

http://www.harken.com/content.aspx?id=3910



1989 C25 TR/WK, #5822
1973 McVay Minuet 19
1975 Jester 12
1981 C25 SR/SK, #2428
1981 C22 SR/SK,
Tanzer 16
Sunfish

"There is nothing, absolutely nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Kenneth Grahame

Edited by - OJ on 07/02/2016 12:39:07
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dasreboot
Admiral

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803 Posts

Response Posted - 07/02/2016 :  17:19:25  Show Profile  Visit dasreboot's Homepage
I have a 12:1 internal system put together from spare parts. Really easy to flatten in high winds

Todd Lewis
Eowyn 87 TR/WK C25 #5656
ARWEN 84 TR/SK C25 #4031
www.mainsailsailingschool.com
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9014 Posts

Response Posted - 07/02/2016 :  18:08:30  Show Profile
I agree with the "how you use" and "loose-footed" comments. A loose-footed sail (no bolt rope in the boom slot) relies only on the out-haul to give vertical shape to the main, and allows unlimited variation. But to flatten a loose-footed main, you need some serious purchase--at least 4:1 and probably more. With my main with a bolt rope in the boom), my out-haul was about 3:1 purchase using a loop in the line at the clew, the tail led back to the boom-end, forward to the loop and through it, and then back, tensioned, and tied off. It stayed like that all summer. But (1) my sail was not loose-footed, and (2) I didn't race. If I had replaced the sail, it would have been loose-footed, and I would have rigged probably a 6:1 out-haul... But I didn't.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
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