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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm looking to add a mast plate to my 1996 250WB. I looked through the old posts and other forums, but can't seem to find a real good description with photos (still online) that shows me what the process might look like.
Has anyone done this recently? Is there a "how-to" by someone that shows the process with pictures (i'm a visual person)
I've read online that my tabernacle and compression post might be welded together. Can anyone confirm this?
from what i gathered the process should be;
pull the four bolts in the base squirt some debonding spray all under it wiggle it gently with a 2x4 to break the seal scrap like crazy to get the old glue off check for leaks and damaged wood if damage, fix with epoxy and redrill holes attach mast plate, likely needs drilling (no mfg part available), use cobolt bits/cutting oil on drill press squirt new layer of 4200 all over put new plate/step in place, slightly tight let 4200 dry, torque down on bolts to compress
go sail?
The only part that scares me is if the compression post is welded to the tabernacle. I'm not sure what to do and i don't want to open the can of worms and get stuck.
Michael, our 2005 C250 WB had the base plate part of the mast base, but...
I had to remove our compression post due to a leak beneath the base plate where it fits atop the cabin top.
The method you describe is exactly what I did to remove the compression post and base plate except that ours is through bolted rather than screwed.
I used Butyl tape to seal the area. First I countersunk the bolt holes in the cabin top and the compression post hole in the cabin top. Then I rolled some tape to apply around the bolt holes inside the countersinks. After putting the post back in place but before lowering it to the cabin top, I rolled some tape and applied it round the compression post inside the countersink.
Then I applied more rolled Butyl tape around the outside of the four bolt holes (ie. about 1/4" from the bolt holes), lowered the post and bolted it in place.
I had to rebed my deck organizers as part of the leak finding process, I used Butyl tape there too. Then over a year later, I swapped out the single deck organizers for double sheave deck organizers. The old Butyl tape was still flexible, very glad I did not use 4200 for that type of job.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.