Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Has anyone used CD's budget priced pin stop genoa cars (40-60 bucks)? They don't have poly sliding surfaces, but my real concern is that they are less than half the price of any named brand. Doubling the price seems pretty high for poly liners, but pretty cheap compared to a loaded genoa car exploding.
you can't go wrong with the Garhauer track cars/blocks. No plastic sides or sheaves to wear out or crack. The track car/blocks on the CD website that are priced in the $45-$46 range are made by Garhauer, items D1159 and D1114, for example.
I used the D1112 cars on my Catalina 25 when I had it. I was sailing on that boat last week and the cars are still in use and working well.
Garhauer stuff is generally well made and inexpensive but heavy. I just bought their adjustable genoa lead car system for my current boat (but haven't received and installed it yet).
I've had them for about 7 years. No troubles, but they really don't slide forward when under load. Moving aft, under moderate load is OK. They are strong and of good value. When I need to make adjustments while underway, I pinch up to ease the strain on the sheet, make the adjustment and then ease back off the wind. We don't race, so it's not really an issue for us...
Jerry: Is that mini review for the ez-glide adjustable ones, or the pin adjustable ones? It sounds like the former, but I wanted to clarify.
That review is not as strong as the one on Practical Sailor, but they tested the 1-1/4" track version, not the 1" track version (my Pearson and the Catalina 25 use 1" track). I was hoping that the system would work better than what you describe under load, but also had some skepticism. Does your car slide on delrin or on ball bearings?
Harken's system is very compelling (their travelers work very well under load), but I wasn't ready to switch from T-Track to traveler track since I use the forward end of my T-track for other accessories. It is also about twice as expensive.
I have bought multiple cars from CD and they are Garhauer crap. The black knob come apart from the pin then the pim will not reach the holes in the track. The cars are cheap thin metal that bends if stepped on. Garhauer genoa cars are the worst product Garhauer makes. The problem is most things are 1" 1/4 now days so 1" cars are very hard to find. At least they do not use those stupid plastic inserts for slide edges.
The silver center of the black knob is essentially a rivet that has been hammered by a press to make that rolled edge. The problem with the design is it depends on friction to keep the pin and black knob together. On my cars bought a year apart the pin popped up and would not go back down. The pin is then held up out of the track holes by the black knob which fits the pin so tightly the pin cannot drop back down into the hole in the track. The design is junk. The cheeks of the block are thin and bend easily, also the base is not cast like the photo, they are formed steel now. Please tell me where there is a 1" car from another manufacturer and I will buy two to replace my Garhauers.
...To move the car the pin has to be pulled upward. But in real life, we have to reach forward to do that. If the pin were on a pivot that would enable a lanyard to pull back and the pin up that would be a better solution.
So you pull the lanyard and the pin pops up... Then how do you move the car without reaching forward?
Yeah if you'd like to needlessly complicate things... the Harken version of above (which seems cleaner)...
The basic low lead Harken part number is g276S
The price from Defender is $197, way more than the $55 for the Garhauer equivalent... I'm not convinced there is enough quality difference to justify that cost differential, but as they say, "to each their own." http://tinyurl.com/oaqz7e7
The Harken cars being sold today run on traveler track, not T-track. You need to replace your track with their track if you buy their cars. The Harken traveler cars move extremely well under load, and not using T-track is a big part of that.
The cars that I linked from Ronstan and Schaefer will run on T-track.
The Harken adjustable system shown in shnool's photo works about the same way as the one in the Garhauer photo, it just shows it installed instead of both parts on one short section of track. There is a 3:1 or 4:1 tackle to pull the car forward that is lead back to a cam cleat. At the back of the car there is a 2:1 bungie tackle that pulls the car backwards. Both boats that I race on (a J/109 and a Catalina 36 MK2) use variations of this system.
As the sail would be flattened by moving the car aft, an action as the wind pipes up, not having to go forward would be a good thing.
Agreed, but a lanyard on a pivoting pin might not be the way unless it's the windward (inactive) car. Thus the multi-part systems where the adjusting lines hold the cars in place, as on a traveler.
Frank, I'm surprised you have had trouble with your Garhauer jib cars. I've got what looks like the D1159 model for 1" tracks on my C-22 and have not had any problems with them. Maybe they are an older, stronger version.
Frank, did you tell Garhauer about your experience and ask them to replace the genoa cars? When I encountered a problem with their equipment that was really my own fault, they fixed it for me at no charge, and returned it to me, at their expense. It sounds like they changed their genoa car design and it might have been defective. I'll bet they would like to have an opportunity to make it right for you.
One method of dealing with an ailing car system is to convert to twings.
On my early model 250, the tracks were too short so to simulate longer tracks, I converted to twings.
A twing is fairly simple. It is a block secured to a line and the line is passed through the car block and cleated at cabin bulkhead (I do so with swivel cam cleats). The foresail sheet of course passes through the twing block rather than the car block.
In use, the car is positioned fully forward and left there and the twing is eased which allows it to rise above the deck and adjust the sheet angle. They are very easy to adjust under load from the cockpit and are far simpler and cheaper than an adjustable car system.
My first concern when considering them was that they would foul but that hasn't been an issue.
The bugaroo is that they will only work if there is a lead block ahead of the winch, which on my boat wasn't an issue because I'd installed coaming winches and they included a lead blocks on stanchion bases. A lead block is of course necessary for fair entry to the winch.
I really like twings but as noted, they can't be rigged on all boats.
Arlyn: I'm curious... I've seen a somewhat different configuration of twings used to move the sheeting angle inward or outward. Your configuration, using the genoa car, raises and lowers the sheeting angle, simulating moving a car forward or aft... But does raising (easing) it to flatten the headsail not also cause the sheeting angle to move outward, reducing the headsail's effectiveness in pointing?
Also, when you tack, do you adjust the new windward ("lazy") twing to get it to lie where you want, or can you leave it as-is?
Arlyn: I'm curious... I've seen a somewhat different configuration of twings used to move the sheeting angle inward or outward. Your configuration, using the genoa car, raises and lowers the sheeting angle, simulating moving a car forward or aft... But does raising (easing) it to flatten the headsail not also cause the sheeting angle to move outward, reducing the headsail's effectiveness in pointing?
Also, when you tack, do you adjust the new windward ("lazy") twing to get it to lie where you want, or can you leave it as-is?
Dave, you are correct that the athwardship angle changes slightly but not much for a hardened condition where the car would normally be far forward, so the twing block is pulled down fairly close to the normal track car position.
I let the lazy fall to the deck with no change of adjustment. As pointed out, at first I thought this might yield some fouling... but none has been experienced.
Yes, a twing using a snatch block is often used for athwardship trim, maybe my use ought to be called a twang.
Dave, you are correct that the athwardship angle changes slightly but not much for a hardened condition where the car would normally be far forward, so the twing block is pulled down fairly close to the normal track car position...
i get that part, but the car forward (or "twang" pulled down) would be for light air. I was wondering about heavier air where you want to pull the clew back, so would ease the twang and harden the sheet, if I understand the rig. That can also be when you want to point as high as possible...
quote:The bugaroo is that they will only work if there is a lead block ahead of the winch,
Wouldn't another car work slid back on the track placed in front of the winch say where you would normally place it for strong winds. Then when the wind picks up you just ease your twang and the second car takes over.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.