Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
We're planning a cruise in the Chesapeake in a couple weeks. I worry about a hot, stagnant night that could make my wife miserable. I have a hardly-ever used 6000 BTU window AC unit down in the basement - it's a low-profile one that looks just like this (someone else's pic that I found on the web):
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I never liked the idea of blocking the companionway with an AC unit, but this one fits perfectly in front of the traveler, and has a nice handle in front. It also has a molded-in handle on top that's useful for getting it into position. So I laid it there, draped the companionway canvas around it, and turned it on. It dropped the cabin temperature from 93 to 75 in about 40 minutes. Works great!
With the handle in front, if we need to exit the boat we just turn the unit off, flip it up on its back, and slide it to the side. The whole case is molded plastic (not sheet metal), so it doesn't scratch the non-skid at all.
It was much easier than I thought. We store it in the front of the V-berth (where we need more weight anyway). After use, we'll need to give it some time for the condensation to drain and dry out before storing it.
I'm hoping we don't need it, but if we do we'll just need to check into a marina and get shore power.
Rick S., Swarthmore, PA PO of Take Five, 1998 Catalina 250WK #348 (relocated to Baltimore's Inner Harbor) New owner of 2001 Catalina 34MkII #1535 Breakin' Away (at Rock Hall Landing Marina)
Rick: Thats good to know! I was just looking these up yesterday. My concept is to temp mount in forward hatch with hatch fwd lip resting on top of unit. Cover with nylon wind sock to direct air. Buy one with a remote. What do you think? Chief
I debated locating an AC over the anchor locker a couple years ago but never pursued it. I was concerned that the forepeak is so narrow and high above the waterline that a good rough storm could put the AC in the drink. Even strapped down, it would be a little unstable getting it in place, and a long way to haul it out of the cabin and then forward to the bow. The AC I have is way too wide to fit through the front hatch.
I don't want it to fit into the hatch. I would use carpet sponge under it on the deck over the anchor hatch with securing lines. Use the hatch cover and wind sock to direct the air inside. Then with the remote it should be easy to control from inside. Chief
Forward hatch and an insulated shroud is what a friend used on his O'Day with good results. I am going to buy one and try both locations to see which I prefer. It might even depend on whether there are one or two of us onboard
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Chief RA</i> <br />I don't want it to fit into the hatch. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I was not suggesting that you mount the AC in the hatch. I was pointing out that unless the AC is small enough to pass through the hatch, you would need to carry it all the way out the companionway and forward to the bow every time you want to use it. I'd worry about stumbling on something and dropping it overboard or taking out a big chunk of fiberglass.
I would not suggest mounting the AC over the anchor locker permanently. Getting to your anchor on a moment's notice is an important safety feature when underway. You don't want an AC interfering with that.
Dave: Did some research on the remote controlled 6000's and the Frigidaire FRA065 looks like a winner. 5.4 amps,small and well rated with cost of about $180. Look 'em up on Amazon. Chief
What model is your unit? I'd love to have one that has the low profile.
I built a set of tube ducts and placed my 6500 Btu a/c on the fore-deck with the ducts leading into the boat through the forward hatch. The a/c was a PITA to get onto the fore-deck and I feel dangerous to carry up there. The ducts worked OK but you lose a lot of air velocity and it didn't cool the way I wanted.
It's much easier to use with the a/c unit sitting in the companionway. Plenty of velocity and it blows right on me when laying on my double height air mattress that lays across the cabin. With the remote I never have to get out of bed.
I figure if there is ever a reason I have to get out of the cabin quickly I'm not going to be concerned damaging the boat. Flip it over and your out of the cabin. You can fix the gel-coat later. :)
I have one of the Frigidaire units very similar to the one Chief researched that we used at the house after Hurricane Ike came through. It works very well however it's not what I have on the boat. The one on the boat is very similar, just a different brand.
I wonder if it could run on a generator? We don't get that hot out here, but I remember living in FL and it could be miserable even at night. Seems like a low db generator (Honda) might be able to run one of these while you were on the hook. The problem would be the starting current, it'd probably run just fine once you got it spun up.
You know the rolling ones aren't bad... and then you only need to find room for a 4" duct. We used to use one of these in our server room years ago... Biggest downside is you have to empty the bucket every day.
This is a 5000 BTU model, should run on a 2500watt generator.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by shnool</i> <br />You know the rolling ones aren't bad... and then you only need to find room for a 4" duct. We used to use one of these in our server room years ago... Biggest downside is you have to empty the bucket every day.
This is a 5000 BTU model, should run on a 2500watt generator.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I've seen very poor reviews for the ones with only one duct on boats or RVs. The whole design concept of a single duct is flawed, because sending the hot air out the duct then results in makeup air coming in through any cracks available in your boat. In the case of your server room (or any room in a multi-room house) it's not a big deal, because that makeup air comes from a different room in your house (through an open door or the crack under the door). But in the case of a confined space like a boat or RV, that makeup air typically comes from somewhere near the deck, which is heated to a very high temperature by the sun. The result is that you may feel cool if you're sitting right next to the AC, but everywhere else in the boat is hot because of the makeup air coming in through the cracks.
There are a few rolling models with two ducts (on out, one in), and those can work better, especially if you place the in duct in a shaded area.
When I was changing my engine I set a 5000 from Lowe's on the deck and used 3/4" insulation board and duct tape to duct the air into the boat through the front hatch. It worked great but I would not want to do it like that as a quick set-up. A fellow 25 sailor was building a hatch board with cut out for one to set the A/C unit in the companionway, however, I have not seen it completed.
What model is your unit? I'd love to have one that has the low profile.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Gary - I'll have to wait until I get to the boat to look it up. It is 20 years old, used for a month or so in 1994 and sat unused ever since. So the exact model is discontinued. I can't find any instruction manuals for it. I found the picture by doing a Google image search, but the site that the pic is from does not have its model number.
I really never have liked the idea of blocking the companionway with an AC. What changed my mind was the ease with which this one could be flipped up and slid out of the way, due to a combination of the low profile shape of the unit and the plastic body on both interior and exterior.
David: OK, if your unit is going to work on say a 2k Honda this is the way to get it past its power spikes if it will do it at all. First just turn on the fan only and this causes just the fan motor to spike, after it settles down then flip it to lowest AC setting to kick in the compressor with its spike. I am optimistic that a 5 to 6 amp normal run unit will run. Chief
I was very happy with a permanent installation on both my boats because the C 25 lends itself to it so well. Ironicly I use a compact unit in the companionway of my little boat.
Sorry RA... did not read your post, I merely followed it. Frank BS BA MS RB
OK Frank, whats the "Sigh" about? Maybe you are more educated about this subject? Nice degrees Frank, what fields? My degrees,BS,BA,AS,230+ units, college Prof, doctorate pay. Chief,EE,IE,ET,FCC lic#1890,
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by hewebb</i> <br />When I was changing my engine I set a 5000 from Lowe's on the deck and used 3/4" insulation board and duct tape to duct the air into the boat through the front hatch. It worked great but I would not want to do it like that as a quick set-up. A fellow 25 sailor was building a hatch board with cut out for one to set the A/C unit in the companionway, however, I have not seen it completed.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I've been planing to do this mod for 4 years and never seem to remember to bring a tape measure.
I'm thinking with the low profile unit I could just set the top two hatch boards on place and make a simple cloth shroud to fit around the unit and snap to the companionway.
I love the idea of the low profile units. I didn't know they made them until last night!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Chief RA</i> <br />OK Frank, whats the "Sigh" about? Maybe you are more educated about this subject? Nice degrees Frank, what fields? My degrees,BS,BA,AS,230+ units, college Prof, doctorate pay. Chief,EE,IE,ET,FCC lic#1890, <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Over the years on this board I have explained and documented my permanent install in the bulkhead between the quarterberth and the dumpster so many times that I simply am amazed it is not a well known and beloved solution. Rather instead I seem to be the only person who has ever thought it brilliant. ... sigh.
In the spirit of fun: BS major in Microbiology which was a quirk of scheduling, I am more of a Physical Science guy. BA in Secondary Ed with certifications in all Sciences except Physics... Calc was too hard. Masters in Ed Admin, you know, a Principal degree. RB Registered Barber, I have renewed my license every year since 1977. Having flunked out of Law School along the way and picked up MBA hours along the way plus the usual pursuit of higher pay through hours accrued as an educator I am North of 330 hours. As anyone like us with lots of college knows degrees and hours can be impressive or noise, mine are mostly noise. An EE is a real degree and more impressive as a baccalaureate than my rather deep pile all stacked up. In a lot of ways I am more proud of my 10 years as a barber than my 25 years as a science teacher.
Thats neat Frank! I rarely run across a person who has more units than I have! I said on the other post that my quals would make all sick: we may have both made 'em all sick! ha Yes, I am most proud of my 21 yrs military service. We kind of stole this post but seems to have already addressed the issues. My best, Chief
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I seem to be the only person who has ever thought it brilliant.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Well if it matters Frank, I did along with many of your mods. Also the extensive photo library that you have kept. A great asset to this forum. I was going to suggest your AC install to Rick but you know he only has a 250 so he can only work with what he has..
<center>[url="https://www.catalina-capri-25s.net/cgi-local/MBR_gallery.cgi?Album+1000+76"] <b>Air Conditioning Installation</b>[/url] This was the first major mod to JD. After our first Summer (2005) long weekends onboard in Biscayne Bay, the decision to install AC was an easy one. I hope that this album provides enough info for anyone to be able to feel it is within their ability to do a similar install.
The plan was to install the system aft of the head and inboard of the head locker. Install the pump in the bilge aft of the water ballast tank. Install 110v power management in the head on the aft bulkhead and install the cooling outflow on the port side aft of the head locker bulkhead.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by britinusa</i> <br />Couldn't resist any longer
<center>[url="https://www.catalina-capri-25s.net/cgi-local/MBR_gallery.cgi?Album+1000+76"] <b>Air Conditioning Installation</b>[/url] This was the first major mod to JD. After our first Summer (2005) long weekends onboard in Biscayne Bay, the decision to install AC was an easy one. I hope that this album provides enough info for anyone to be able to feel it is within their ability to do a similar install.
The plan was to install the system aft of the head and inboard of the head locker. Install the pump in the bilge aft of the water ballast tank. Install 110v power management in the head on the aft bulkhead and install the cooling outflow on the port side aft of the head locker bulkhead.
</center>
Paul <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Great setup. If I had to use AC more than once a year (or less), I'd bite the bullet and do it this way.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.