Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've just taken the keel cable winch off and removed the cable and hose - the keel is already dropped - and the turning ball is seized solid. The cable has been sliding over one spot and it's worn down a lot. I have a new ball and pin from CD. My question is - what method have others used to get the pin and the old ball out? Any help gratefully received. Sailorbaz
Sailorbaz 1981 Boomaroo 25, (C25) SK/SR, inboard diesel, Red Robin South coast, New South Wales, Australia
i squirted the hell out of it with penetrating oil and used a drift punch and hammer from he side. not alot of room to swing which is just as well seeing how you might damage the tube by swinging too hard. thought about getting one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/palm-nailer-68027.html
The one my boat was the same way. The PO had never done any maintenance on it and the cable had cut through one side of the ball and into the pin.
I used a C-clamp and two sockets to get it started. The one socket was about the same diameter as the pin. I think it was a 1/4". The other was big enough for the pin to pass through. It took about 3 hands to get it all held in place, but it worked well enough.
Give the tube a good wiggle while you're down there. I found mine was a little loose.
Thanks for the replies. I haven't tried to push the pin out yet. It's soaking in penetrating oil at the moment. I will try to get it out tomorrow. Sailorbaz
Hello Sailorbaz - Mine was easy because the PO had done it a few years earlier. I lubed it with a little grease when I put the new one in. He was on saltwater and it looked pretty good. I think if you re-do it every 3 years you should be fine in the future. At 3 year interval, the cost is only about $50 a season which is inexpensive insurance in my opinion. Best of luck.
Hi all, I've got it out now using a combination of hitting it with hammer and drift and the C-clamp with a couple of sockets idea - thanks for that. I would have posted a photo but it looks exactly like Frank's - worn down to the pin. The tube is secure, it doesn't move at all. I'm going to assemble the new one with waterproof grease. Sailorbaz
Glad you got it out;, we've been there! just a suggestion though; when you thread the new cable thru the tube and over the ball, make sure you've got the cable on the the proper side of the ball. Otherwise, the geometry of the cable to the keel connection will result in the cable cutting into the tube as the keel comes up and down...On my boat, the po had the cable on the wrong side of the ball and it started to cut into the tube. Good Luck!
Paige, I am not sure I understand your advice. If the wire rope is forward of the ball it will saw a line in the hull but not the ball. The line has to go over the ball on the aft side so it has a fair lead out of the boat. Even then you would get some sawing on the hull when the ball is worn.
Hi Nick, Definitely on the aft side. I'm interested in how the anodising works out. I'm thinking of having mine done when the boat's out of the water again. Are you going to use your boat as a trailer sailer or will you keep it somewhere on Port Phillip Bay? Sailorbaz
Sailorbaz, I plan to keep it on the trailer and use it in Queensland in the winters I used to have a home on the Broadwater at Cabbage Tree Point but now live in Victoria. Port Phillip Bay sucks so I will sail up north. Mind you It is not the type of boat you chuck off the trailer just for a day sail.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by worane</i> <br />I am looking for the blue print type drawing for a C25 timber tiller. Any one have an idea where I can find a drawing of that. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Nick, I suggest you repost this as a new topic, it will get more replies that way and be relevant to it's own subject.
Thanks for the great information, I'm planning on doing this project in the next couple of weeks, trying to get my boat back on the water by the end of May early June. I just finished replacing the pivot pin assembly (quite a project) and have some failed filler on the Keel I need to grind out and replace.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dasreboot</i> <br />i squirted the hell out of it with penetrating oil and used a drift punch and hammer from he side. not alot of room to swing which is just as well seeing how you might damage the tube by swinging too hard. thought about getting one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/palm-nailer-68027.html <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Son-in-law has one, works really well. Don't hold the nails the way shown in the video, it tickles if you happen to press too hard!
When you throw in the cost of a compressor (I don't have one) it makes the Cordless palm nailers quite attractive.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.