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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Having borrowed a trailer extension past 2 seasons for boat haulout (WK250), I now would like to build one for 2011 season. I believe I will need about a length of 16-20' given the shallow slopes on the available boat ramps here at the lake (Lk Walenpaupeck, PA). Would appreciate any comments or thoughts on this project. Thanks Bob
With information provided by members on this forum we fabricated the approx. 9 ft long hitch extension. Everything is bolted to the trailer without welding and finished with several coats of liquid galvanizing which contains 95% zinc and is self sacrificing. Touch-ups later on are easy and make it look like new again. The liquid galvanizing spray can is available in most paint stores and cost about $9.00
The spare tire suspension is reversible and will carry the weight of the trailer and boat while the extension is in use. Simply take our the pin, pull and re-insert it into the sleeve and lock it with the pin.
2nd for the strap launch ...as long as your ramps are steap enough..
I use a chain / that i also use for a back up anchor .. the extention does not get the trailer in far enough for me . 40` to keep the truck out of the water , at high tide .
Thanks for the nice pics on your trailer extension Henk, you have a cleaver wheel design which I have never seen before. I noticed you have a WB model which may not need as much extension length then I do with my WK model. Thanks for your response Bob (pa-sailor)
Bob (pa sailor) My boat came from AZ. and the boat was rope launched at that lake.
(Goto the Technical Tips,..click Catalina 250 tips,---then click the "here" in the for all tips,---look down to " Fortuity" Launching, rope launch). and you'll see and read about how it was done. "photos".
In Nebr, the ramp isn't that steep or deep. I need a extension for my WK as well. I used one a friend had on his boat and will make one before spring. It was a 2" square and 18 to 20 feet long. On one end was a hitch bolted on, and the other a 2" ball mounted. Ball goes in the trailer and the hitch goes to the truck. (Boat trailer ------(extension)---Truck) My boat also has the "wheel on the Fwd. of the trailer, boy does that work good. Hank did a nice photo shoot, and my wheel looks kinda the same , only it goes up and down on a slide. Hope this helps. Dave B.
The idea for this concept came from some people on this forum several years ago. Obtained the parts and pieces together with the hitch extension requirements and had someone local weld it up. I believe that a similar version is available commercially... The hitch extension itself is stored on the port outside and tied to the upright bunker supports of the trailer. 1/4" stick-on felt pads are used to avoid metal to metal chafing both on the horizontal and vertical surfaces.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">It was a 2" square and 18 to 20 feet long. On one end was a hitch bolted on, and the other a 2" ball mounted. Ball goes in the trailer and the hitch goes to the truck.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Interesting to have two turning points on the hitch extension. Should be fine when the boat is "pulling' on a flat, smooth, horizontal ramp. But... any experience when "pushing', over horizontal, uneven or off-level surfaces... or am I missing something?
Henk, The extension would only be used on the ramp, i.e. trailer stays attached to tow vehicle until trailer is lined up on the ramp, chock trailer, disconnect from tow vehicle & pull forward, attach extension device - whether strap or pipe extension, then launch/retrieve boat. There is little turning, if any at all. We use the strap method because our ramp slope is shallow and I have a fin keel trailer. Strap is 30 ft. long and we still have to back the tow vehicle down almost to the water's edge.
Thank you David... To make "backing up", a little easier a tow package was installed, before our year-long around the continent harbor hopping, under the hood of the truck allowing to better oversee things and at leisure, doing the "setting up", some distance away from a ramp when things were busy on the ramp.
Thanks for tip Dave, can you or Henk tell me where to get on or the reverse wheel brackets. Bob
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave Brown</i> <br />Bob (pa sailor) My boat came from AZ. and the boat was rope launched at that lake.
(Goto the Technical Tips,..click Catalina 250 tips,---then click the "here" in the for all tips,---look down to " Fortuity" Launching, rope launch). and you'll see and read about how it was done. "photos".
In Nebr, the ramp isn't that steep or deep. I need a extension for my WK as well. I used one a friend had on his boat and will make one before spring. It was a 2" square and 18 to 20 feet long. On one end was a hitch bolted on, and the other a 2" ball mounted. Ball goes in the trailer and the hitch goes to the truck. (Boat trailer ------(extension)---Truck) My boat also has the "wheel on the Fwd. of the trailer, boy does that work good. Hank did a nice photo shoot, and my wheel looks kinda the same , only it goes up and down on a slide. Hope this helps. Dave B.
Searched, but was unsuccessful in locating a manufacturer. However, from the submitted information and pictures you should be able to obtain square steel tubing, sleeve material, wheel hub, liquid galvanizing spray, U-bolts, lock pin, flat steel, trailer hitch, misc and a welding shop locally.
Henk, If I were to redesign that launch wheel again, I believe I would switch the square tubing for round tube. That way you could just pull the pin and let it rotate down and then re-pin it. Verses having to pull it out of the square tube turn it 180 and then slide it back in. I might even weld a small plate on the inter tube end to keep it from sliding out of the larger tube.
Should be a good idea to use round material except... perhaps that forces, in case of a rough ramp, stones or big load, will focus on a pin/hole restraint rather than being held constant by a snug fitting square tube & sleeve. Should be fine though and will eliminate pulling and reinserting if that poses a problem
Forgot to mention that you will somehow have to fasten the round outside sleeve to the flat steel which in turn is u-clamped to the trailer...
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> ...which in turn will eventually slip in the U-clamp dropping the tongue to the ground when you hit the aforementioned rocks, stones, etc...
Great thoughts by both you and Henk for this launch wheel. I love the C250, but because we (here at lake) are at the mercy of marinas/ and or trailer and trailer extensions, my next boat will be smaller. Bob
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Tom Potter</i> <br />Henk, If I were to redesign that launch wheel again, I believe I would switch the square tubing for round tube. That way you could just pull the pin and let it rotate down and then re-pin it. Verses having to pull it out of the square tube turn it 180 and then slide it back in. I might even weld a small plate on the inter tube end to keep it from sliding out of the larger tube.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.