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Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant
    

Canada
1089 Posts |
Initially Posted - 11/29/2007 : 01:35:55
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Hi guys,
When I bought my boat last year it had antifouling ablative paint on it. PO says it's about 3-4 years old.
I believe it wise to get rid of my antifouling ablative paint for the following reasons: 1. It's about 3-4 years old and due anyways. 2. My boat is kept on the trailer all the time, and ablative paint is not a good idea and very chalky now. The longest I would keep it in the water is probably 10 days during our summer holidays. The boat is out of the water 95% of the time. 3. I believe I am not allowed to have ablative paint on my boat on my freshwater lake (Ghost Lake, Alberta) since it's part of our drinking water system. Maybe Stampeder can attest to this as he is more experienced than I am in this region.
Most of the people here that keep it on a trailer seem to have the normal bare gelcoat bottom, Paul (Britinusa) comes to mind. Considering my usage I wonder if I should:
1. Remove the old ablative paint, restore to factory conditions (gelcoat only). 2. Remove the old ablative paint, restore to factory conditions and apply bottom paint.
If I should go with option #2, what would you use for bottom painting it? So far I have looked at: - VC-17 - Interlux 2000 barrier coat - Hard bottom paints (Interlux Micron) - two part epoxy ( really like what Mark Maxwell has done on his although I would probably go for a dark blue or red) LINK scroll all the way down. - I'm also attracted to this one for some reason: LINK |
Steve Blackburn, Calgary, AB C250WB - 1999 - Hull 396
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Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 11/29/2007 02:25:57 |
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Happy D
Admiral
   

817 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 06:58:07
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If it was my boat, I wouldn't put anything on it. The deck is probably wet for more than 10 daays a year. Not putting anything on that. IMO Gelcoat should be just fine. |
1977 SK/SR Dinette Hull #29 1977 Chrysler Pirateer 1965 Chris Craft Cutalss
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stampeder
Master Marine Consultant
    

1600 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 09:21:59
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| Bare bottom Baby. |
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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant
    

Djibouti
9999 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 09:23:36
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| Agree. |
Association Port Captain, Mystic, CT Past member and DPO of C-25 #5032 Now on Eastern 27 Sarge (but still sailing) and posting as "Stinkpotter".
   Passage, Mystic, and Sarge--click to enlarge. |
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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant
    

USA
6776 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 09:54:14
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The only thing I can see as an issue with a bare gel coat bottom would be your ability to remove only the current bottom paint and only the barrier coat that sits between the gel coat and bottom paint. If there is one best case is that there isn't one, worst case is that it is VCtar. In order to remove only the ablative you are will most likely need to long board the old paint off since an orbital sander has too great of a chance of cutting into the gel coat if you aren't 100% careful.
If you find you do need to apply an antifouling paint then I would use a Interluxes Micron Extra. It is more inlign with trailer launched boats, as it is a hard non ablative paint, doesn't require re-application every year, doesn't require sanding to re-apply and it comes in white, so you don't look like a dufus trailerlaunching a boat with bottom paint. |
D. Wolff DPO C25 Hull 401 Currently Sailing "Champagne and Ripple" 1982 O'day 30

Chief Measurer 2002-2006 Vice-commodore 2007 |
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Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant
    

Canada
1089 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 10:24:59
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Excellent, then bare bottom it is! I'll use some type of stripper to rid the bottom paint. If the bottom doesn't look too good after that (of which I greatly doubt since I got to be quite good at repairing gelcoat) then I'll paint her bottom with Interlux Micron.
Thanks guys! Was trying to figure this out by myslef but there is so much conflicting information here and there that I didn't know where to start.
I have a WB. To get under the trailer bunks is it a good idea to tilt (heal) the boat to one side with the boat floating then pull it out to expose the undersides of the bunks? I could do most of it and have those 2 areas to strip/sand. Or maybe I shouldn't bother and just jack it up (using the trailer jack method) putting wooden 4X4 spacers between the 2 bunk resting points and the boat? |
Steve Blackburn, Calgary, AB C250WB - 1999 - Hull 396
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Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 11/29/2007 10:31:14 |
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tinob
Master Marine Consultant
    

USA
1858 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 10:44:02
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If my boat were on a trailer I'd go gel coat only....
Val on the hard DAGNABIT, # 3936, Patchogue, N.Y. |
Val Bisagni] |
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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant
    

Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
6441 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 11:10:19
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Unless there are esthetic reasons, if the current bottom paint is a true ablative, I'd be inclined to power wash the bottom then let father time take care of the rest.
quote: Originally posted by Steve Blackburn
The boat is out of the water 95% of the time.
One more thing...You need to work on improving this percentage.  |
Don Lucier
North Star SR/FK
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Edited by - dlucier on 11/29/2007 11:15:07 |
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Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant
    

Canada
1089 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 11:45:04
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quote: Originally posted by dlucier
Unless there are esthetic reasons, if the current bottom paint is a true ablative, I'd be inclined to power wash the bottom then let father time take care of the rest.
quote: Originally posted by Steve Blackburn
The boat is out of the water 95% of the time.
One more thing...You need to work on improving this percentage. 
Agreed! Admiral and I find ourselves talking about sailing quite often. We discuss healing characteriscs, the physics involved, feeling, future trips, etc. I think we're getting into it. Should be sailing much more next summer. It's more than just a sport or activity, it's a new lifestyle for us and we're liking it more and more. |
Steve Blackburn, Calgary, AB C250WB - 1999 - Hull 396
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Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 11/29/2007 11:45:25 |
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Ericson33
Admiral
   

USA
866 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 12:49:51
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Steve,
Not to be the one to bare the bad news, but I don't think even with stripper, you will not be able to get the bottom close to the gelcoat state without a ton of time tied up on sanding, then snading , then more sanding.
Now, if it was my boat and I had some extra money, the boat was on a trailer, and I had a truck to pull it, I would find a bead blaster or a company that will strip the bottom for you. I did or boat 2 years ago and can still feel it in my back, orbital sander 100 grit paper, and 4 days of sanding, all this work got me a bottom I felt I could paint, I applied a hard bottom paint w/ a sprayer because our boat sits on a hoist. this paint was then sanded, and sanded, and again sanded - there are still small places where it needs to be gone over.
the best question is : What is your time worth, and can someone as a professional do it for you, Maybee a car shop, not a boat yard? |
C.S. McKillip Ericson 33 |
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stampeder
Master Marine Consultant
    

1600 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 14:05:07
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Steve - GLM will let you use their sling hoist if your storage or moorage dues are paid. Or it's about $75 per day. If you buy paint from them, they'll also cut you some slack. I have a gallon of paint if you want it, cheap. (I bought too much)
I have a power washer you can borrow.
And if you sand or paint I'd be happy to stand around and watch while drinking your beer.
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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant
    

USA
1896 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 14:49:22
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I agree with using a power washer first to get off the loose chalked up paint. The guy who repainted my C-25 when we bought it last fall wet-sanded all the ablative paint off by hand. Took him about 2 days. Also, one of our C-22 sailors came up with an innovative idea that works well (he says) and is enviro-friendly. He used soda blasting. I'm talking baking soda. I haven't seen it in action, missed the demo, but I understand that it is easier on the gelcoat with less chance of gouging, and it was fairly quick. I think that they used a sand blaster set for very fine powder. I can pass on an email address if you are interested.
After getting the old paint off, I would not repaint, except maybe a white barrier coat if you are going to trailer sail it. |
DavidP 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess" Fleet 36 1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52 Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN
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Admin
Forum Admin
  

345 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 14:58:59
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| Soda blasting is supposed to be the next best thing since the peanut shells. It is very difficult to find anyone that does it though. |
Web Editor |
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John Russell
Master Marine Consultant
    

USA
2276 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 17:31:09
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quote: Originally posted by stampeder
And if you sand or paint I'd be happy to stand around and watch while drinking your beer.
It's good to have supervision for these things. |
John Russell 1999 C250 SR/WK #410 Bay Village, Ohio Sailing Sandusky Bay on Lake Erie
Don't Postpone Joy! |
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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore
    

Pitcairn Island
6774 Posts |
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Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant
    

Canada
1089 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 23:27:49
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quote: Originally posted by stampeder
Steve - GLM will let you use their sling hoist if your storage or moorage dues are paid. Or it's about $75 per day. If you buy paint from them, they'll also cut you some slack. I have a gallon of paint if you want it, cheap. (I bought too much)
I have a power washer you can borrow.
And if you sand or paint I'd be happy to stand around and watch while drinking your beer.
I had no idea GLM had a sling hoist, that's great! I buy most of my sailboat stuff from Mike at GLM and pay my dues in advance (6 months). Won't they mind the blue gunk/dust I'll leave behind? I'll take you up on that power washer for sure since I'm thinking multiple stripper applications and powerwashing in between. Wonder if I could find a baking soda sandblaster in Calgary though, I've seen YouTube videos and it's quite impresive. What kind of paint do you have and what kind of beer do you like? |
Steve Blackburn, Calgary, AB C250WB - 1999 - Hull 396
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delliottg
Master Marine Consultant
    

USA
2684 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 00:04:31
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Steve, I've had decent luck with VC17 even though it's designed to be sailed dry, it was what was on my boat when I got it, and I touched up a bit before I put it in the water for several months. I was disappointed (but not overly surprised) to see that my touch ups have basically worn right back off. I think before I put it back in the water I'm going to strip the VC17 off and maybe go with Pettit Trinidad SR. A friend who just came out of the yards says that the guys in the yard unanimously said that it was the best bottom paint for this area. I like the idea of soda blasting it off, sounds like much less work for my shoulder to deal with.
That said, in your situation I'd probably go gelcoat only too. |
David
 Sirius Lepak 1997 C-250 WK TR #271 --Seattle area Port Captain -- Unique Treen come take a look, become a fan, and follow us on Facebook |
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Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant
    

Canada
1089 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 00:12:24
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| I found a soda blaster located here in Calgary and asked for a quote. I'll let you know about the pricing. Bare bottom is what I am aiming for. Was going to buy a powerwasher but I can invest in a 6 pack of beer for Stampeder instead, and if I'm lucky he'll let me have one. |
Steve Blackburn, Calgary, AB C250WB - 1999 - Hull 396
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Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 11/30/2007 00:13:08 |
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delliottg
Master Marine Consultant
    

USA
2684 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 01:39:12
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| I found one here as well and have asked for a quote too. If it's reasonable enough, I'll have both boat bottoms done, maybe it'll make the San Juan 21 more sale-able. |
David
 Sirius Lepak 1997 C-250 WK TR #271 --Seattle area Port Captain -- Unique Treen come take a look, become a fan, and follow us on Facebook |
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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore
    

Pitcairn Island
6774 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 06:16:31
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| Shoot for $350 -$500 American, I paid $350. He earned every penny. |
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stampeder
Master Marine Consultant
    

1600 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 09:04:33
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quote: Won't they mind the blue gunk/dust I'll leave behind?
You will need to put up a tarp or two. He won't want any of your paint ending up on a new MacGregor.
The hoist is that big yellow thing behind the grey shop.
 This is Labarca on the sling hoist getting a new bottom. I'm the white object under there...I'm there to cushion the boat's fall in case of strap failure.
Ohhh, and another thing....can you bring a lawn chair for me. Now that I think of it - drinking beer AND standing around might be a bit too much work. |
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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant
    

USA
1896 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 12:28:32
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The picture above of the soda blaster gives a great shot of the keel taper profile.
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DavidP 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess" Fleet 36 1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52 Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN
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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore
    

Pitcairn Island
6774 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 12:44:58
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Yes, it is not just a knife blade. The photos I select to put on my pages show different things to different people, I have tried to pick pictures that are worth staring at a while. Downloading them and looking at them at full res turns up a lot that is missed at the web display res. |
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Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant
    

Canada
1089 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 15:08:32
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| What kind of paint is that Mike? Looks like the ablative I have but a little harder. |
Steve Blackburn, Calgary, AB C250WB - 1999 - Hull 396
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Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant
    

Canada
1089 Posts |
Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 23:38:51
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I visited Industrial Plastics & Paint here in Calgary. They have a bottom stripper called Removeall 610 specificaly made for removing anti-fouling paint. It's only $67 for 5 gallons which is enough for our boats. This guy on Sailnet seemed pretty satisfied LINK.
Maybe I can get away by applying 2 successive coats and finalize with light wet sanding?
What yall think? |
Steve Blackburn, Calgary, AB C250WB - 1999 - Hull 396
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Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 12/01/2007 13:31:34 |
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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant
    

Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
6441 Posts |
Response Posted - 12/01/2007 : 07:19:26
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| I thought C250's came with a factory barrier coat? If so, you might want to ensure the chemical stripper won't damage the barrier coat...Just a thought. |
Don Lucier
North Star SR/FK
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