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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 250 Specific Forum

Anchor Bow rollers

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Tim Barker
Deckhand

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United Kingdom
1 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/28/2006 : 16:11:34

Does anyone know where I can get hold of a Bow roller that will fit onto the c250 without having to alter the cleat positions.

Edited by - on

Bubba
Admiral

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USA
542 Posts

Response Posted - 10/28/2006 : 22:13:37

I mounted a Windline AR-3 anchor roller on my 250. [url="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/frayed-knot/projects/anchor_roller.htm"]Click here [/url]for a brief write-up.

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 10/28/2006 : 22:42:27

Dave and Deb -

You should send that webpage to Paul to add to the C250 anchor tech tips....

dw

Edited by - on

Bubba
Admiral

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USA
542 Posts

Response Posted - 10/29/2006 : 19:30:26

Thanks Duane, I will.

Edited by - on

SEAN
Admiral

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USA
772 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2006 : 07:50:03

hey dave I like the bow roller,

I guess you have to take the pin out to put the anchor back in the locker ?
hows that work? is it easy ?
will it work if you leave the pin out all the time ? or will the line pop off the roller ?
At least it will keep the line in line as you pull it in.

Edited by - on

528
Navigator

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USA
181 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2006 : 12:42:28

Sean, Enclose your shutterfly link between two [img]. A slash is required in front of the second /img inside the bracket and your signature will post correctly. If I post it exactly it will try to show an image.

Edited by - on

SEAN
Admiral

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USA
772 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2006 : 17:42:09

I was trying to to get a profile picture,
but theres no [img] thing there . ?

Edited by - on

Russ.Johnson
Commodore

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USA
833 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2006 : 19:18:43

Sean,
I used your image in my profile.
The picture was full-sized so I changed it to thumbnail
Go to your profile, in the Signature field, paste the string below.
remove the dash before the img
Full-sized picture
[-img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6d911b3127cce8b256aa414b400000016100BYt2rRo1Ysc[/img]
Thumbnail picture
[-img]http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6d911b3127cce8b256aa414b400000020100BYt2rRo1Ysc[/img]

I'll remove it from my profile when you get your to work.
Russ

Edited by - Russ.Johnson on 11/01/2006 19:35:58

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2006 : 20:30:19

let me put on the admin hat and I'll fix that for you

Edited by - on

Russ.Johnson
Commodore

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USA
833 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2006 : 21:07:21

Thanks Duane,
I'm sure Sean will appreciate it.
Russ

Edited by - on

SEAN
Admiral

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USA
772 Posts

Response Posted - 11/02/2006 : 04:49:17

thanks guys for the help !

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/02/2006 : 10:00:38

Nice sig Sean

Edited by - on

Bubba
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
542 Posts

Response Posted - 11/02/2006 : 20:02:18

Sean,
I was out of town this week so couldn't reply earlier.
I leave the pin in when anchored, which has only been a couple of times so far. The line would likely pop off the roller if the bow were to rise and fall in swells or a wake. The pin easily pulls to open. I can't remember if it can be pulled completely off or not. It's still awkward getting the anchor back onboard.

Edited by - on

welshoff
Captain

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USA
253 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2006 : 16:31:52

Sean,
I have the same roller mounted the same way on my boat. The pin does not come all the way out, unless you remove a roll pin. I have a claw anchor and the set up works great.

Dropping the anchor: Pull the pin, open anchor locker, grab the anchor and drop it over the roller (the claw will sit on the roller/bow of boat nicely), grab the chain and lower anchor away (I usually stand back of locker when heaving the line).

Retrieving anchor: Grab rode, start pulling in line (I usually stand back of locker when heaving the line), pull and flake line in locker, when anchor breaks surface, I dunk the anchor as need to get off mud (as best as possible), pull anchor up and over roller (again anchor lays on roller/bow of boat), lean forward and grab anchor put back in locker, close the locker door reach up and push pin back (you could probably leave the pin out at this point as it will not go anywhere, but I push it in to make everything "ship shape").

When anchored, I always push the pin in so the rode does not jump off of the roller. I also cleat the line between the two bow cleats in a fashion that allows the rode to pull straight through the roller so there is no chafe on rode (do this when hanging on the hook for long peroids of time - overnighters).

Here are a couple photos:

Edited by - welshoff on 11/03/2006 16:36:47

Bubba
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
542 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2006 : 19:15:05

Wil/Sean:
I do the same. My danforth anchor is just more awkward to handle. Maybe it's time to look at a claw...

Edited by - on

SEAN
Admiral

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USA
772 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2006 : 20:00:01

thanks guys , I see I thought you would have to
take that ring off to take the pin out .
sure would be easer pulling the anchor if
the line stayed still !

Edited by - on

Bubba
Admiral

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USA
542 Posts

Response Posted - 11/03/2006 : 20:21:18

Just to be clear: you grab the ring to pull the pin. You don't take the ring off.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 07/18/2007 : 23:35:26

Bubba (or anyone else that's mounted the Windline AR-3),
Do you remember how long the 3/8" bolts were that you used to mount your anchor roller? Getting mine mounted is approaching the top of "the list" and since the boat's now about 35 miles away in it's marina, it's harder to just go outside & measure. I'm guessing 1" x 3/8" SS should do it? I plan to use SS fender washers on the underside as backing (grinding them to fit if necessary), nyloc nuts and 4200 as bedding material. Anything I'm missing?

Is the roller butted right up against the forestay fitting, and just forward of the anchor locker? It's hard to see that side in the pictures.

Did you overdrill & epoxy when you did the install? If so, what size did you overdrill to? I'm thinking 5/8" should give me a solid 1/8" all the way around.

Thanks,

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 07/18/2007 : 23:48:20

I have the AR-3. I believe I used 1 1/2" bolts. Longer helps you locate them and believe me it is tough manuvering around under there with one hand.

I advise having two socket sets for this job. Have a 6" extension on the one that holds the nuts. Have some extra washers and nuts in case you drop some.

I did not over-drill and fill in, etc. Just drilled the right sized holes and used caulk. With three bolts you don't need 5200. There was metal in the deck which ate a drill bit. I pushed the AR-3 up to the forestay fitting but be careful not to go right up on top of it at all or it will raise that side of the AR-3 and your install will be crooked when viewed from the front. Consider light gloves. There was some unfinished fiberglass in my boat that took some skin off my hand.

Edited by - Nautiduck on 07/19/2007 09:27:25

welshoff
Captain

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USA
253 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2007 : 13:43:31

I used 3/8" x 1-1/2" stanless bolts, washers, and lock nuts through the deck. I used the standard flat washers under the deck. It is very tight access and it is challanged to install the washers and nuts with one hand (usually by then you have 4200 on your fingers).

I moved my roller a little farther forward to clear the cleat and line up port side of roller with the forestay fitting. When I did that, it put the forward most hole through the deck to hull flange. The nut ended up on the outside of the hull and fit perfectly up into the space at the hull to deck joint. This last bolt was a 3/8" x 2" bolt with a lock nut (no washer).

When I anchor or pick up a moring, I always run the rode through the roller to cleat off. My roller is very solid. When I cleat off the line I go to the starboard cleat. I then use a second line and pull the rode over towards the port cleat to center it through the roller. I like the line to run straight through the roller and not chafe against the edge of the roller assembly.

Edited by - welshoff on 07/22/2007 13:45:27

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