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 Replacing Main Halyard Cable.

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T O P I C    R E V I E W
RockB Posted - 03/01/2020 : 17:54:51
Went down to the boat today to replace the cable on the Main Halyard since it was bent into a coil in several places.

Got the end cut off and a small line taped to the cable.

Of course just my luck as I was pulling it up the tape did not hold and I ended up with the line laying on the deck on one side and the cable laying on the deck on the other.

Have to lay the mast over now. Project for another day. Anyone near the FL Panhandle with experience doing this and want to help

Moral of the story: Don't get in a hurry and tug on the line first to make sure it is going to hold.

At least it was a gorgeous day to be out working on her.
9   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Stinkpotter Posted - 03/17/2020 : 21:43:24
A little slack when hoisted and sheeted in hard. The halyard wire is more than sufficient--if it's long enough. (It might not be.) The first time I forgot to unhook the pigtail before hoisting the sail was the last time I hooked the pigtail to the boom. It stayed hooked to the backstay until I replaced the standing rigging (with no pigtail). The hardened mainsheet tensioning the topping lift did the job.

You might want to consider methods mentioned here and in other threads about making the topping lift adjustable... With a standard rig and standing only about 5'8", I didn't find it that important, but with a tall rig (boom a foot lower) or a taller body, you might appreciate it at the dock or mooring.
RockB Posted - 03/17/2020 : 12:12:29
No Topping lift.

Will the new 1/8 Stainless Cable be good enough for that?

Should I make it so that it is a little slack when the sail is all the way up or a little slack when the pigtail from the back stay is connected or something else?

dmpilc Posted - 03/06/2020 : 12:11:20
I agree, use this opportunity to change out the wire/rope halyards to all rope. Also, if you do not have a topping lift for the main, you can take the better of the 2 wires, attach it to the top of the mast beside the backstay and use it for a topping lift. Determine the length so it stops about 2-3 ft from the end of the boom, cut and put a thimble on it. Then attach a line to it and continue to a block on the end of the boom. run that line forward to a cleat, either on the boom or all the way down and back to the cockpit. If you don't have a furler, take smaller piece of wire, add a thimble to it so it is 12-15 inches long and you have a pigtail for your jib so you can see under it when sailing alone.
redeye Posted - 03/04/2020 : 07:17:50
Bill,

You might want to call catalina Direct and ask them about ordering some new sheeves and line and go to an all "rope" halyard. It's just easier to use.

Catalina Direct help was excellent, the guys in California are knowledgeable and relaxed.

Usually 4 sheeves up top at the masthead with a plate between them... might look something like this:



If you have "external" halyards. jib coming up front on the right (strbrd) side from the sail, over two sheeves and back down aft to the cleat or blocks.

So 4 sheeves with a plate front to back between the sheeves keeps the line from jumping one side to another. Old sheeves are often brittle and often show damage on the edges which eats the line. I did not get sheeves with ball bearings and mine seem fine. I think there is an aluminium sleeve in the middle that acts as a bearing.


Im using 3/8 inch line on both halyards and the sheeves were purchased to size for this line... I think 10mm is also a similar size.

My blocks are for these sizes as well the clutches.


Anyhoo I hope this helps rather than clouds the issue, I'd love to be down at PC/PCB to help but work calls.... we kept a boat down at Watson Bayou for years, and missin the trout fishing/flounder giggin in West Bay.


Enjoy the Rain, spring is on the way.





Derek Crawford Posted - 03/03/2020 : 09:57:51
when it's on the spool onshore it's "rope". When you take it onboard it becomes "line" and when you cut it to become something specific it takes that name - "halyard", "downhaul" etc.
BTW I call "downbelow" the cabin"
Lee Panza Posted - 03/03/2020 : 08:38:41
Bell Rope and Bucket Rope, too (or so I've read).

But Dave's right about calling it "rope" until it's put to use as a "line." Just ask the manufacturers, like New England ROPES. They, and the others, use the R-word extensively, although they occasionally use the L-word when discussing which of their ropes to use for specific applications.

Now, if we want to generate some discussion, is it the "salon" or the "saloon"?

islander Posted - 03/02/2020 : 17:54:13
I was taught that the only rope on a boat was the one to start an outboard.
Stinkpotter Posted - 03/02/2020 : 15:38:51
Now that you're putting the mast down, how about replacing the sheaves at the mast-head and installing all-rope halyards. Many if not most here have done it. Those wire halyards were the solution back before low-stretch rope. No more concerns about meat-hooks and kinks, and less abusive to your mast and sheaves. CD has what you need, all the way to kits for leading the halyards back to the cockpit if you don't have that (and want it).

(Note: I use the word "line" for a component of the boat, like a sheet or halard, and "rope" for one of the materials a "line" can be made of--was taught that way as a kid. )
Derek Crawford Posted - 03/02/2020 : 07:48:35
Bill, foe future reference, it is best to sew the 2 ends together before taping them.

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