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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Unstepping mast, loading first time on this traile

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[quote][i]Originally posted by wm36[/i]
[br]Russ, thanks for the post. I am thinking along similar lines to your suggestion. To avoid as many holes through the deck as possible, I am thinking about mounting the strip brackets to the mast step itself. The details are unknown at this point. The brackets are not expensive so I have ordered two of them from Garhauer. I will test fit and measure before drilling any holes. As you mention, it may be possible to cut one strip in half to have three holes on each side of the mast, which would be perfect, although would allow no future expansion (whatever that might be, I can't imagine). The inside width of the step is 3 1/4", and the foot of the mast is 3", so there is not much extra room in there. I am hoping that, with a right angle drill attachment, I can fit a countersink bit in there so the mounting screws are flush with the inside of the step.

Again, the details are unknown at this point. I will get the bracket strips so I can see what size machine screw they take. Then get some screws and see how they fit, if countersinking is possible, etc. And of course, making sure that mounting the brackets on the step does not interfere with the pin at the base of the mast when it is inserted prior to raising the mast.

As always, any hints or suggestions are appreciated.

[/quote]

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T O P I C R E V I E W
cudamank	Posted - 03/07/2021 : 00:12:36 This week I will be unstepping the mast on my Catalina 25 and loading it on my trailer. First time unstepping and first time on this trailer. I plan on using the boom to drop the mast forward and will have help 3 or 4 people. But I have some questions: Is it better to drop the mast at the dock, or once the boat is secured to the trailer? The trailers support jacks are adjustable, by lock bolts, and Ill have it set to lower than needed and raise up to bottom of bolt. 6 jacks, 3 to a side and an additional bow one. Any suggestions or tips? Trailer also has a 10' tongue extension and a center wheel support. (needs a wheel yet). Lake level is pretty low so I think I will be needing that. Stressed about the process and probably overthinking, but I would appreciate any thoughts or tips. Been reading the threads on Mast stepping and unstepping, and will continue to study. Thank you John .
14 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
Leon Sisson	Posted - 03/11/2021 : 14:14:29 When trailering a boat, I tie down, back, and across. After securing the bow eye to the winch pedestal (there's usually a chain there to back up the winch), I tie heavy dock lines from the bow cleats, diagonally down the side of the hull, under the rear trailer cross member (with padding if edges are sharp), up to the primary winches and sheet cleats. Also at the back of the trailer frame, I route ratchet straps from each side of the trailer, under the boat, to the opposite side stern cleat. Lines back from bow cleats hold the boat from moving forward, and pull the stern down onto the trailer. Crossed straps keep the stern from moving sideways. Expecting a typical boat trailer bow stop to hold a boat back in a collision, or even a panic stop, seems like wishful thinking. Realize that all attempts to keep a boat on its trailer in a traffic emergency at best just raise the bar for how forceful an impact it would take to dislodge it. Definitely not a substitute for heightened alertness and defensive driving while pulling a load.
JB	Posted - 03/11/2021 : 11:02:21 When I strap the boat to the trailer it rides better. The boat strapped to the frame forms a more rigid structure and I think it reduces some of flex in the frame. Also the boat can definitely shift while cornering if it's not tied down.
Steve Milby	Posted - 03/11/2021 : 10:36:34 That's helpful. Notice the boat's keel trunk. The boat's swing keel would have been retracted on the trailer. Notice also the boat's flat bottom as compared to the C25's round bottom. Notice also the low, flattish bunk boards. When the trailer jacknifed, there wasn't much to resist the boat from sliding laterally off the trailer. That particular boat should have had hold down straps. A C25 trailer surrounds the C25's round bottom with bunks that restrict any lateral movement of the boat. Likewise, the 4' fin keel also restricts lateral movement. The deeply rounded shape of the C25's bottom, the equally deep curve of the bunks, and the 4' fin keel all restrict the boat from moving laterally. That being said, I think the result of jackknifing a C25 on a trailer would probably be equally bad. I don't think the C25 would have separated from the trailer until the trailer tipped over, but I think that would probably have happened because of the C25s very high center of gravity on the trailer. I think it would be pure speculation whether the C25 would be more severely damaged if the trailer and boat turned over with or without hold down straps. In either case, a really good insurance policy would help. All boats and all trailers aren't alike. Some need hold down straps and some don't.
Lee Panza	Posted - 03/11/2021 : 08:39:17 Steve, you asked questions, here are some answers (and a video clip); evidently the boat fell off when the trailer jack-knifed without the trailer coming loose or overturning. Just thought it interesting to follow-up on. https://www.bellinghamherald.com/news/local/article218829565.html
Steve Milby	Posted - 03/10/2021 : 15:35:55 Yes, of course boats fall off trailers, but the devil is in the details. Was it being towed on a factory built trailer designed for hauling a sailboat, or was it on a cradle resting on a flatbed trailer? Was it a home built trailer? Did the trailer separate from the tow vehicle? Did the driver swerve suddenly to avoid another vehicle and roll the trailer over? Did the driver fall asleep? Was he drunk? The picture only tells the result without telling how it happened. If you want to advocate in favor of hold down straps, provide facts of how that boat ended up on the highway, and how straps would have prevented it.
islander	Posted - 03/10/2021 : 13:54:56
Steve Milby	Posted - 03/10/2021 : 10:14:32 I towed my C25 T/FK from Florida to Ohio, to and from Iowa twice, and other long trips and never used tie downs. I did, however, attach a safety chain from the trailer to the boat's bow eye. I can't imagine anything separating that heavily ballasted boat from the trailer other than a rollover, and if that happens, tie down straps won't help. That being said, tow it at a reasonable speed, don't tow it with old tires and don't let it wander off the pavement onto a deeply rutted berm. The bow eye and the keel and the curve of the bunks keep the boat centered on the trailer. Light weight, flat bottomed boats need tie downs, but IMO not a heavily ballasted, round bottomed sailboat on a trailer designed to carry it. But there's no harm in tying it down if you prefer.
cudamank	Posted - 03/10/2021 : 09:26:29 Thanks Steve, didnt consider the wait. What about tie downs? My Frame has 4 tie down locations, 2 in back half way from tires to rear of trailer, and 2 in front half way from tires to front of trailer. I need to purchase new ties downs as mine all left when they stole my car trailer. Is the "Bigger is Better" theory good here? Any photos of how you secure your boats to the trailer? Thank you, Tomorrow is the big day. Hoping the rain holds off.
Steve Milby	Posted - 03/08/2021 : 13:58:55 Dropping it at the boat ramp will make you wildly unpopular with the usually long line of people waiting to use the few available boat ramps. I've seen the waiting line of trucks and trailers 1/2 mile long. One driver behind me fell asleep while waiting, let his foot off the brake and rolled into my trailer. On a hot day, expect someone (probably a power boater or jet skier) to want to fight if you occupy the ramp that long. Lower the mast anywhere but at the boat ramp.
cudamank	Posted - 03/08/2021 : 11:41:43 Thanks for all the replies. There is a thread on here about dropping it forward. will need a guide rope from the end of the boom to each side to control the boom from swinging side to side. The main sheet will provide back tension to keep the boom perpendicular to the mast, if I followed the post correctly. An A frame is still not out of the question, and may go that route for as if I drop it in the slip, there is most likely a boat in front across the dock, so dropping it back would be better. The Ramp is not at the marina, so I may drop it once it is on the trailer , either at the ramp or up in parking. Appreciate the information and possible things to look at.
Voyager	Posted - 03/08/2021 : 06:42:08 quote: Originally posted by cudamank This week I will be unstepping the mast on my Catalina 25 and loading it on my trailer. First time unstepping and first time on this trailer. I plan on using the boom to drop the mast forward and will have help 3 or 4 people. John, you�re right to think the process through. You never know what to expect with a project like this. My question centers on dropping the mast forward for two reasons: (1) once the mast is horizontal, what do you plan to rest it on? The bow pulpit is strong but the amount of leverage caused by the weight of the mast extending forward is enormous. I�d recommend some kind of wooden cradle to protect both mast and pulpit. (2) I�ve only dropped the mast aft using an A-frame. Pretty tame stuff. By using the boom to drop forward, how do you keep the boom perpendicular to the mast throughout the drop? How do you prevent the boom from falling over to port or starboard when the mast is canted at 45� or 30� off the deck? It seems like there�s nothing about the geometry to keep it upright, unless one of your helpers handles that. Just going by my experience the 2-by-4 A-frame made the job very safe and certain. While the boom technique does not require additional materials or a place to store two 8ft boards, it seems a little bit trickier to me. I also agree with Steve above, drop the mast while securely tied to the dock on the water.
keats	Posted - 03/08/2021 : 05:26:37 Sorry John, that's pretty much all you're going to get on this forum. You might try Facebook.
Steve Milby	Posted - 03/07/2021 : 07:58:28 I always raised and lowered my mast with the boat in the water. When a fin keel boat is on the trailer, it's about 12' off the ground. If you fall to pavement from that height, your injuries are likely to be either crippling or fatal. You'll have to climb up there occasionally, but it should be avoided, and you should always be aware of the danger. When up there, you should use the grab rails when you can. I always rounded up 2-3 strong helpers to handle the mast, and didn't want to expose my friends to that hazard, especially if they weren't accustomed to working at that height. I lowered the mast with the boat in it's slip, and with the dock lines shortened to prevent it from moving unnecessarily. Your helpers should work from near the boat's centerline. That will prevent the boat from rocking from side-to-side. Nobody should board the boat while the mast is being raised or lowered. What's important is that you keep control of the mast while raising or lowering it. A safety line will do that. I always told my helpers, "If it starts to fall, don't try to catch it. Just let it fall." After the mast is down, you can coil and secure all the cables and the mast, and make the boat ready to trailer. It's much safer to do everything you can to prepare it for trailering before the boat is on the trailer.
keats	Posted - 03/07/2021 : 07:02:35 You'll find plenty of advice here on unsteppping the mast, usually with an A-frame or gin pole. Sounds like you've got plenty of help though, for that. There is no reason to unstep the mast on the water, unless there are some overhead obstructions at the ramp that prevent you from getting to a level spot. It sounds like you and I have have similar trailers and fin keels. I don't have the wheel up front and have always only used the tongue extension to get the trailer deep enough. Lower the pads first and have a couple of wrenches handy for the lock bolts. Assume someone will drop a wrench in the water. The keel supports the weight of the boat so your goal is to get the keel squarely on the trailer pad. I have carpet on mine, as well as on the pads. I leave the bow support where it should be and, when the bow is winched up to that, I'm there. Now, raise the pads until they just touch the hull and lock them. Check and lubricate everything on the trailer first. Check the winch and replace it is it's old. I had the pawl give out on my first winch under load and almost broke my arm. I don't know the slope of your ramp but I've always been able to get deep enough with the tongue extension and a good size pickup with the tailpipe and differential submerged. If you're borrowing a truck make sure the owner knows that and should replace the diff oil after. Or get that wheel on the tongue and some tow straps and and let it roll. I have not done that yet. You'll wish you had a swing keel when you're done. Lol.

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.