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T O P I C R E V I E W
zeil
Posted - 11/26/2020 : 17:00:22 Never really paid any attention to this photo which is part of the "Owners Manual", and describes a job anti fouling set-up
At the same time I noticed an interesting way the jib sheet is rigged
7 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
zeil
Posted - 12/21/2020 : 17:01:25 Yes... thanks Russ. I forgot to mention the close to mid ships, port side only, jib furling line cleat. We have a similar cleat as well and use it sometime for docking
I'll measure the jib track length tomorrow when visiting the boat. I'm pretty sure it is as you mentioned just 24" (61cm)long
Russ.Johnson
Posted - 12/21/2020 : 16:36:36 Henk,
How long is your Jib tracks? I'll like to document with measurements some of the differences.
Also, the Technical Tip photo has a Port cleat installed. That's the Jib furling line cleat, which was factory installed. That also may not have been installed on the 1995/1996 models.
Russ.Johnson
Posted - 12/21/2020 : 16:30:19 Henk,
Thank you for your comments. For others who are not as familiar with the website, I posted a link to the Technical Tips section. Here's how to access from the menu.
Left Menu: Technical Tips Center: Catalina 250 Tips All Tech Tips:
Posted - 12/21/2020 : 14:22:23 Great info Russ thank you...
Our boats have not been modified from original. We've often had trouble with sheets getting caught, which in foul weather and chop, can cause instant problems.
The anti-fouling line seems a simple solution. Up till now we bungee both main and jib halyards to the aft of the mast and thereby eliminate mostly the problem.
To compensate for the length of the Jib Track I would like to try to run the jib sheet, as indicated, through a block and thereby have a wider range of choices.
We find that by installing the boom-vang tackle the other way around which allows to operate the vang from the companion way steps with the hatch partly open
The photo you refer to provides several points of interest. It shows a port mid ships docking cleat, an inserted gin pole ready for mast lowering, a wood mid-mast holder complete with furler support, a jib sheet-antifouling line, extra winches located above the coaming storage spaces and a stanchion rigged whisker pole
It has a good photo of the original short jib tracks too.
Russ.Johnson
Posted - 12/14/2020 : 21:29:46 Henk,
I'm sorry for the late reply to your post. You can tell, I've been behind in forum reading.
Thank you for posting this photo from the C250 Owner's manual. I've heard about the "anti-fouling line", but couldn't figure out what people meant.
Just a note for owners of newer models. Both, Henk's 1996 and Wayne's 1995 C250WB have the original configuration. There have been a few design changes over the years shown in your photo.
A) Mast Cleats and Halyard Placement The original configuration had mast cleats for the Jib and Main halyard. Newer models have a mast base for turning blocks, deck organizers, and rope clutches near the cockpit. With those changes, the mast cleats shown were removed and also the need for the anti-fouling line. Note: There remained a single mast cleat near the gooseneck for the reefing.
B) Jib Track Length The original configuration had jib tracks that were about 2-feet long. To flatten the jib, move the jib cars aft. Sometimes you might want to flatten the jib farther aft then the track would allows. What is pictured is the jib sheet running through a block instead of the jib car. This allows both: adjusting the jib beyond the range of the jib track; adjusting the jib "sheeting angle" from the cockpit without adjusting the jib cars. Newer models have jib tracks about 5-feet long, so there is less of a need for that.
Wayne, to answer your question. Yes, it is more complicated. The jib car block has a line lead to the cockpit. To flatten your jib, loosen the jib car line and tighten the jib sheet. This moves the sheeting angle aft.
This arrangement also needs an extra cleat. A cleat for the jib sheet and another cleat for the line running to the job car block. This is needed on both Port and Starboard.
Tacking is the same, just release the jib sheets as usual. Once the tack is complete, the job car block is loose on the deck, so it's one more thing to get tangled.
C) Boom Vang Position The photo shows a modification to address a problem that exists on all C250 models. The owner has added an extension to the boom vang. It looks like a cable with a snap shackle, notice the loose White ribbon. When the boom vang is attached at the mast, the cam cleat is at the wrong angle. This makes it difficult to adjust the boom vang from the cockpit. I would guess, since the halyards are at the mast, the boom vang was intended to be adjusted at the mast to. With the extension, you can easily adjust the boom vang from the cockpit.
Thank you for posting this photo. It explains some of the changes over the years.
Now that I think about it, this looks really close to a tech tip that Arlyn posted years ago. I wonder if he sent it to Catalina Yachts and they included it in the owner's manual. Russ
wm36
Posted - 11/26/2020 : 17:27:58 I tried something like that using one of the existing mast cleats to support the peak of the anti fouling line. It only worked okay for me. I think the shock cord I chose is too lightweight and it needs more tension. Will try version 2 next season.
I can't quite figure out the jib sheet rigging from the photo. Looks complicated and how do you tack? The boom vang rigging also looks interesting.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.