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T O P I C R E V I E W
Posted - 06/30/2020 : 12:39:25 Hi all, It’s time to replace my original furling 110 headsail. I was wondering if I should go with the 135 as a replacement to get more on light air days or will I have to reef it too often on windier days to make it worth it? I have a 250WK. Thanks!
8 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
Posted - 07/01/2020 : 17:51:35
quote:Originally posted by WK 727
I love this topic, 110 vs 135 for a headsail on our C250's. Why? Because, there is no definitive answer and it always boils down to "it depends".
John, You bring up some points that I hadn’t considered. Since the 110 and 135 were both factory options for that model year, you would think the tracks would support it. The 110 and 135 were offered for both WB and WK models.
Posted - 07/01/2020 : 16:03:02 I love this topic, 110 vs 135 for a headsail on our C250's. Why? Because, there is no definitive answer and it always boils down to "it depends". It depends on where you typically sail, typical conditions, is this your only headsail for all conditions and the all important points of sail, because everything is a compromise.
My experience and opinion: I had the factory 135 and it was limited to light air and pointing upwind. It performed well in this condition and point of sail. Broad reach and downwind, the sail lost shape and performance by rubbing on lifelines and the pulpit. The first compromise I chose was a high cut tack. I wanted one sail for all points of sail at the expense of a slightly higher center of effort for the sail. If I had an upwind sail and a downwind sail this is a terrible thought. I am a casual sailor wanting one headsail for all points of sail, hence the high cut tack. Open for debate.
The location of the tracks on the C250 don't allow the cars to be far enough back to tighten the foot of the sail to spill air for proper twist at the top if a 135 genoa is used in modest to heavy wind conditions. So the resulting action is to reef the headsail. The car is left at the back and the foot is tightened from reefing to spill the wind. Problem solved but for the wrong reason, again my opinion.
The tracks can't be relocated so the variable is the sail size. I chose a custom 125 to match the location of the tracks. I have had it for several seasons and love it. I can tighten the foot and spill excess wind in heavy conditions and have correct sail shape in all points of sail with the high cut tack.
Sail area is important (135 vs 110), but not as critical as the ability to manage sail shape or the quality of the sail. Hopefully this stimulates the conversation.
Posted - 07/01/2020 : 13:59:29 I upgraded to the ball bearings a few years ago. Highly recommend it. Makes a world of difference. I have never had a problem furling since. The guy at CDI is very friendly and helpful (he's Canadian) if you have any questions.
Posted - 07/01/2020 : 08:54:24 Not all CDI FF4 are the same as well. Some are a bushing style and others have ball bearings. My 2000 is a bushing style with a 110, which is difficult for my crew to furl in 22kts. I plan to upgrade to the bearings.
IMHO, I would go for a 135-jib. The sail balance is better and it will give you more power on light days. Sometimes the previous owner will shorten the “extra” furling line. Catalina Direct offers headsails. They also have a “Winter Special” if you can wait that long.
Posted - 06/30/2020 : 17:32:31 I have a 2001 250 WK. I have the CDI FF 4/6 (which I assume is the 4 but it’s labelled 4/6) and there appears to be plenty of space for more furling line.
I mainly sail solo and have a difficult (3 point turn) into the slip so I prefer lighter days. Since the boat seems to handle much better at lower heel angles, I err on the side of caution and reef the main and/or headsail once the wind picks up.
I do notice the jib does seem to get lost behind the main downwind in light air so I was thinking the 135 might work better.
Posted - 06/30/2020 : 16:00:23 Ken,
Welcome to the forum. It would help if you list your boat model, year, and hull/sail number. You can add that to your forum profile using the signature field.
When I bought my boat, the 110-jib was standard and the 135-jib was an upgrade. both would fit on the factory furler.
I recommend a larger headsail, because the 110-jib is easily overpowered by the main. Check how much extra line you have on the furler and if there is room for more.
Here's things to consider: Are you a family sailor where heel angle is an issue? (small jib, low heel). Do you sail more on calm days where getting back to the dock means using the outboard? (big jib, more power). How often do you currently reef the mainsail? (if you don't need to reef the main, that gives a sign what kind of weather is in your area).
Posted - 06/30/2020 : 12:49:15 Is your furler FF2 or FF4? If it’s FF2, the drum may be too small for 135.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.