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 Relocating deck electrical connector

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T O P I C    R E V I E W
myersge1 Posted - 06/12/2019 : 09:51:35
I installed a mast step halyard plate under my mast step.

https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-25/rigging/standing-rigging/mast-step-halyard-plate-c-25-tallstd-rig/?SearchResults=1

The problem is that the electrical connector for the mast lighting is in the way of using the forward three holes of the plate on the port side. Therefore, I've ground down the electrical connector's deck protrusion flush with the deck and epoxied/faired that area smooth. The question is, where is the best place to drill and set my new thru-deck connector. One of the previous owners ran new wires to the old connector up from inside and cut the original wires so I can put the new deck connector anywhere I want.

If I put it in front of the mast, then it will catch on the jib as I tack. If directly behind the mast, it may get caught on the vang lines. I'm currently planning on placing it 4-5" aft and 1-2" outside of the mast step. Has anyone else ran into this issue when using a mast halyard plate?
11   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
GaryB Posted - 06/14/2019 : 18:33:08
Thanks for the input everyone!
myersge1 Posted - 06/14/2019 : 04:08:27
Thanks for the replies. I didn't think about the forward shrouds protecting the area immediately in front of the mast. I'll relocate both the lighting and antenna connectors there. Also, thanks for the warning on bending the antenna coax to far. Didn't know that.
keats Posted - 06/13/2019 : 19:48:26
That is the correct part yes. Regarding the cover on the connector, it's more than a protective cover, it's a bail that snaps down and holds the plug in place. It's flimsy and I've broken two of them. Other than that it has worked well.
Leon Sisson Posted - 06/13/2019 : 16:38:03
Re: "..a part Mfg and part number for your deck connector?"

Looks to me like an Aqua Signal # 80100-7, $50.

https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?id=680929


I've installed several of them. Although not perfect, they seem to be about the best thru-deck quick-connect available for mast wiring at anywhere near a reasonable price. Problems I've encountered include losing the protective cover, salt spray getting to the pins and to the wiring inside the backshell, jib sheet getting snagged under the horizontal part, breaking the connector and ripping it out of the deck. My suggestion for preventing that is to locate and orient the connector assembly so that the cable coming out of the connector is close to, and points toward, the mast.

I also like the Cable Clam with screw terminal strip in the head near the compression post suggested above. The only problems I've had with those is the cable grommet leaking, and the plastic clamp ring eventually becoming brittle Looks as though they're now available with a metal clamp ring.
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?id=1351867

(Same $50 unfortunately.) The probably shorter-lived plastic version is $20.
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?id=28629



As for the additional minute of ramp rigging time needed for a Cable Clam, that particular task can be completed after the boat is in the water, before dusk.

GaryB Posted - 06/13/2019 : 15:08:17
Thanks Scott!

Tim - D you have a part Mfg and part number for your deck connector? I like the way that one looks.
keats Posted - 06/13/2019 : 05:08:42
[p]
[p][p]
Here's my setup, a new penetration ahead of the mast and a deck connector for the mast wiring. I understand you can't run the VHF cable like I did but there are plenty of places to relocate it to.
islander Posted - 06/13/2019 : 03:50:37
I got it from LeeSailCovers. I have one of my head sails that doesn't have a UV cover. It's well made and gets raised by a spare halyard. I also raise a 1/4" line along with it then when it's up I rap the line a few times around it because it has a tendency to flog.
GaryB Posted - 06/12/2019 : 18:22:45
OT for just a second...

Scott - Where did you get that cover for your foresail and how does it work?
Lee Panza Posted - 06/12/2019 : 14:08:22
Gerry: I chose the swing-keel model for easier ramp launching and trailering, so I am probably more inclined to want to disconnect the electrical and VHF cables above the cabin top than some other owners. My through-deck connections are on the port side of my mast base, by several inches, as well as forward of the bulkhead below. However, in order to allow more slack to absolutely prevent any tension on the connectors, I routed the cables around the front of the mast to enter it on the stbd. side. As Scott pointed out, there is no interference with the jib clew or the sheets.

There are two things to consider regarding placement of the through-deck connections. One is proximity to the bulkhead. This involves ease of providing a decorative covering at the penetration as well as avoiding having the wires hanging down; bending sharply is to be avoided in the VHF cable. You'd probably prefer to have the cables coming down in head the rather than in the saloon area, for esthetics if nothing else. I have my toilet mounted slightly forward of the center of the space between the bulkheads, allowing more space for hanging my foulies from the bulkhead between the head and the saloon. This also keeps my head (the one between my shoulders) away from the area near that bulkhead, so it doesn't matter where the cables come down through the cabin top. If your VHF cable needs to cross over the "doorway" between the saloon and the head, it should penetrate the cabin top several inches to the port side of the mast so it can loop back up without bending sharply. The size of the cable determines the radius of the bend.

The other consideration is whether the cables become a tripping hazard when you stand at the mast. The farther they are away from the mast, the more likely your feet will encounter them.

While you just asked about the through-deck cable location, you referred to the prospect of conflict with the hardware at the mast base plate. The other issue related to this possible conflict has to do with placement of the turning blocks (usually deck organizers) that lead the lines back toward the cockpit. These should be about as far aft as possible to minimize the turning angle, reducing the resistance. This also directs the lines aft of the area on deck above the bulkhead.

I'm sorry that I don't seem to have any good pictures to share that show the arrangement I ended up with, but I hope this has given you enough information to confidently resolve this for yourself.

islander Posted - 06/12/2019 : 10:37:42
quote:
If I put it in front of the mast, then it will catch on the jib as I tack.


Won't happen. Your forward lower shrouds Keep the sheets well in front of the mast. I have a cableclam fitting directly in front of my mast for my VHF radio wire. If it were me I would put the wires through a cableclam and make the connection inside of the head area where it is protected from weather and abuse. This is my VHF connection but I would do the same for the mast wires.

dasreboot Posted - 06/12/2019 : 09:56:59
yes, i switched to a cableclam, and it was touching the edge of the mastplate, ao i couldnt align the screws. I bent up the mast plate a bit with locking pliers.

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