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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Sailpro 6hp

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T O P I C R E V I E W
archimedes	Posted - 11/03/2018 : 19:42:32 Hello, I know most recommend an outboard in the 8 - 9.9hp range for the C25. But I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the Tohatsu Sailpro 6hp with a high thrust prop on a C25. My 9.9hp engine died and I'm not sad to lose 110 pounds off my motor bracket. It was back breaking trying to lift that thing up. If I have to get another 9.9 I'm going to have to replace the motor bracket too - and combined that's gonna be approaching $3k. That's more than my boat is worth and more than I want to spend. The Sailpro is less than 60 pounds, is much cheaper, and I can use my existing motor bracket. But it's a false economy if it doesn't move the boat safely and effectively. I know that the larger engine will provide more power but I don't know if it's really necessary - so someone with experience would help. I'm not going to be cruising long distances just day sailing. But there is some (predictable) tidal current where I sail - which I could avoid with proper planning. Thanks for any feedback
25 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
Boomeroo	Posted - 03/17/2019 : 11:27:58 So much comment but some facts missing . 1 speed thru the water is the important item ,and current slows down a boats speed (over ground) independant of motor size. A 4 hp will get the boat to hull speed as will a 6 hp or a 9.9 etc the difference will be in engine revs and torque curve position . A high thrust large propellor will have more thrust so maintain speed in waves etc . Basically accelerate the boat to maintain speed .bigger the motor the bigger the propellor the lower revs needed. I used a 3 hp once on dead flat water and expected a slow trip. After about 5 minutes i noticed the speed was up near 5 knots but the motor was working hard and acceleration very slow when it hit a small wave . My 9.9 hp digs a hole bow up stern down indicating trying to go over natural hull speed if i get to 3/4 throttle in flat water . A 6 hp is fine unless climbing mountains ie ocean swell and large waves which slow the boat requiring more totque . Side mount means you need a 25 inch to motor sail on bothe tacks effectively.
islander	Posted - 03/14/2019 : 12:19:28 Not much choice anymore for an 8hp 25" shaft. Only Honda still offers it but it is very pricey. Tohatsu dropping the 25" shaft on their 8 and 9.8 leaves the 9.9hp models as the go to for a 25" shaft. Heck, Most don't even have an 8hp in their lineup.
Stinkpotter	Posted - 03/12/2019 : 13:32:47 quote: Originally posted by bear OK, pretty much decided on 8HP Tohatsu motor with electric start... ...and no 25" shaft?
islander	Posted - 03/12/2019 : 06:34:33 Mine came by FedEx to my door. Comes in a carboard box. He off loaded it and I used a hand truck to my garage. You have to be home for it. Needs a signature. Not difficult. They give you tracking so you'll know what day.
bear	Posted - 03/12/2019 : 05:27:01 OK, pretty much decided on 8HP Tohatsu motor with electric start. One last question receiving motor from on line outboards. How is it delivered/off loaded so it's maneuverable In a box I assume by myself.
dalelargent	Posted - 03/05/2019 : 15:14:24 A quick reply to alfreddiaz re. Columbia and Puget Sound. I have sailed my c-25 in both of those waters. I have now sailed the San Juan islands totaling 20 weeks or so. There is no question in my mind I want you to have a 9.9 hp. The currents involved can be quite strong in places. 3-4 knots is not uncommon at all. Which means, if one is pushing against current, and your motor can only produce 5 knots, you are at risk of only 1 knot of headway and very little steerage. If you add wind/wave resistance to that, your boat could be in serious trouble. However, my 9.9 has handled every situation I have asked of it and I have always felt super comfortable with my power reserves and control of the boat.
Voyager	Posted - 03/03/2019 : 18:55:31 Hi Bear, Running the cabling for an electric start isn�t terribly complicated but there are a few tips that might be helpful. * Make sure you fuse the positive lead very close to the battery plus (+) terminal. Total safety thing to prevent you burning down your boat in case of a short. Probably need a 30A or 40A fuse. * For 30 feet of 30A power you should use at least #6AWG cable. * It�s good to have a terminal block or plug near the engine when you want to remove it. * A kill switch somewhere in line is not a bad thing to have. Not to shut off the engine but just to be able to quickly disconnect power between the engine and the battery.
bear	Posted - 03/02/2019 : 16:32:19 On as a guest looking to renew. Looking for a new outboard for my C 250. Couple questions. Going with an electric start. Is that just a matter of hooking 2 wires into the battery? Thinking of 8HP or 9.8 Tohatsu. Both weigh the same. I currently have a Honda 8HP with rope pull, 23 years of faithful service. But this old body is getting tired of pulling that starter rope. Any one better than Outboard Motors for a good deal? TU in advance.
OLarryR	Posted - 11/20/2018 : 04:18:54 Agree with all that has been said regarding the trade-offs between going with a lower horsepower or lighter outboard versus the heavier 4 strokes sold by Honda, Yamaha, etc. My Honda 9.9 XLS has run flawlessly since I purchased it back around Jan 2006. But as it is approaching it's ~ 13th Bday, it has lately been giving me some trouble. My thought was that as a minimum, the jets had to be cleaned. I was getting set to bring it down to the local marina where I bought it for them to investigate repair it and was in the act of disconnecting the wires and pulling the heavy outboard off the boat. So, my thoughts were along the line - First lugging the heavy outboard off the boat , into the car and then dealing with the rerouting of roads and traffic that has occurred near the marina I would be bringing it into and then secondly, how long it would take for them to get to my outboard (lost sailing time), can they find the issue and what it would cost and thirdly, being prepared if I decided to buy a new outboard to resolve the reliability issue and then would I go with a lighter outboard making it easier for me to transport the outboard. The outboard is not the only thing that has aged during the past 12+ years - A lot harder for my old body lugging the outboard around. Then a local fiberglas/woodwork mechanic that basically lives at our marina, stopped by as I was just about ready to pull the wires out of the transom and indicated he had an outboard mechanic that could work on the outboard right at the dock. So, I went that route. Turns out the jet cleaning did not resolve the issue. In all, I had the carburetor replaced and also the water impeller and housing as well. This was all done dockside since my outboard can be tilted up and it then clears the finger slip so most work can be accomplished on the finger slip dock itself. My outboard is back in running shape. A long story but wanted to indicate that the weight thing may not be as big a factor if you have good support down at your marina and your outboard can in the tilted position be swung over the dock. In the 12+ years I have owned the outboard, my outboard has never been off the boat. All maintenance has mostly been down by myself except this recent repair where I had an outboard mechanic that was able to work it dockside as well. I have also been able to accomplish a lot of maintenance when I have had the boat out and in the yard for a week for copolymer/ablative anti-fouling paint renewal. So, deciding on an outboard should also weigh in just who is gong to be servicing your outboard, periodically, and then if necessary, for major repairs. Can your outboard be tilted up and swung over a floating finger slip. Local service and ability to accomplish maintenance dockside can minimize the concerns regarding going with a heavier outboard.
Steve Milby	Posted - 11/11/2018 : 07:30:31 A 4 cycle Tohatsu 6 or it's equivalent can push a 25' sailboat at about 5.5 kts. C25 hull speed is about 6.3 kts. As a practical matter, 6.3 kts is the most speed you can get on a C25 under outboard power. A 4 cycle 9.9 outboard will push the boat to just about hull speed. If you're motoring against a current, you can deduct the speed of the current from the boat's speed, and that's the speed made good towards your destination. If you motorsail, you can probably increase your boat speed with a 6hp to about 6.1 kts. Adding sailpower to the engine's power increases boat speed. Also, when motoring to windward, every time a wave smacks the bow, the boat loses 1-2 kts of speed, depending on the size of the wave. Sailboats don't accelerate very fast, so, every time you lose speed, it takes a long time to gain it back. Motorsailing helps the boat power through those waves. If I'm planning to make a long passage under power, like 25-30 miles, and, if I'm seeing 20-25 kt winds on the nose, I'll simply postpone the trip until the conditions abate, because I know the trip will be a long hard slog, if I can make it at all. I really don't think the difference between a 6 and 9.9 hp motor would change my decision to postpone the trip. Having a 9.9 hp motor wouldn't improve my speed much against those waves, but it would make it a much wetter ride, with more waves breaking over the bow with greater force. Making a trip to windward in those conditions on a 40' 18,000 lb boat isn't a big deal, as compared to a 25' 4,000 lb boat. The essence of seamanship is in knowing when to go and when to stay. However, if you're on a sailing venue where you frequently have 2+ kt currents, like the Columbia River, I think a motor that can drive the boat to hull speed, like a 9.9 would be the better choice. You'll probably need that extra power and boat speed more often than those of us who sail on bays and lakes.
alfreddiaz	Posted - 11/10/2018 : 22:57:37 Wow. I was just about to post a question about this very same topic because I am considering going with a 6 hp for my Cat 25 SK. So here is what I am getting from the previous responses. It seems to me that if you are just going to put in and out of harbor, 6 hp should be fine. But what if you have to fight a strong current or blow? This summer with my 9.9 HP Yamaha, which is old and needs to be replaced, I struggled to get hit 4.5 knots when heading up river on the Columbia, which was probably flowing at 2.5 knots easily. I hear there are some mean currents in parts of the Puget Sound. I would hate to be under power with a 6 hp. So, my questions to those with 6 hp motors, have you had to use them against any significant blows or currents? Also, I plan on getting the 25 inch shaft to help solve some cavitation problems that tend to occur with having a side mount outboard. Great post. Great timing.
redeye	Posted - 11/08/2018 : 11:29:20 4 hp 20" shaft length ( a rebranded Toe-hot-sue) Works great for an inland lake. Any kind of wave action and this would cavitate.. so 25 would be required for offshore. I've never used this engine in any kind of current, but it seems to power well. I've used 6hp on my boat also. And 9.5.... they all seemed similar.
RichardG	Posted - 11/07/2018 : 16:50:20 I switched to a high-thrust prop a few years ago, and that seems to help a bit, both with propulsion and gas mileage.
RichardG	Posted - 11/07/2018 : 16:45:57 I have a Tohatsu 6 hp with 20" shaft. Anything heavier than that is a deal breaker for me. A 25" shaft would be better, but it was more $ and weight, so I deal with it. Motor sailing definitely helps a lot in chop. I remember once bashing into the wind about 25 nm out to Santa Barbara Island. The engine cavitated occasionally, so I had to pay attention, but not too bad. When motor sailing in these conditions, it helps to have a flat, reefed main, and point just off the wind in order to balance the help from the main with the direction I wanted to go.
Voyager	Posted - 11/07/2018 : 07:17:34 I�ll second Scott Islander�s vote for 25� long shaft. It depends on your engine mount, so if the bracket has greater range and if you don�t get 2-3 foot waves, you may be able get away with a 20�. If the cost difference is minor, go long!
islander	Posted - 11/07/2018 : 06:01:54 Definitely the 25"
archimedes	Posted - 11/07/2018 : 06:00:06 I forgot to ask, since I'll be buying new, would the 20" or 25" shaft be the way to go?
archimedes	Posted - 11/06/2018 : 06:32:54 Unfortunately, it's hard enough to find a used 4 stroke with a long shaft around here. Two strokes are like hen's teeth.
GaryB	Posted - 11/05/2018 : 18:51:08 I've got an 8HP 2-stroke Suzuki. It has oil injection so all I have to do is check the oil reservoir every 2 or 3 tanks of fuel and the rest is automatic. If it smokes at all it's very, very little and I don't notice any smell. Then again I was raised on 2 strokes and that's what I'm used to so maybe to my brain it's the way an outboard is supposed to smell and I don't notice it! LOL
archimedes	Posted - 11/05/2018 : 17:34:28 Thanks for the replies. It's good to know that some are using a 6hp with reasonable results. That puts my mind at ease a bit. If I can make 4kts even with some current I'll be satisfied. I don't want to buy a larger outboard because I may be downsizing to a C22 in the not too distant future and the 6hp will be plenty for that boat. But if I can use the 6hp for the remaining time that I have the C25 (with reasonable results) that would be great. With the old 9.9hp I had to use the boom vang as a block and tackle just to raise the outboard out of the water. My motor bracket doesn't offer nearly enough assistance.
Voyager	Posted - 11/05/2018 : 13:19:26 Another cheaper alternative is to find a good used 2 stroke. Generally significantly lighter weight with as much power, they are still around in the used market. Some of my buddies have them on their dinghies and a few sailors in my harbor use them on their boats. The downside is mixing oil and gas but many newer units took 40:1 and 50:1 ratios, so put out very little smoke. I retired my old British Seagull 40 Plus since it provides only 2.5 HP and took a 10:1 mixture which was quite smoky. If 2 stroke engines are still legal in your state it may be an option. Of course, you might be unwilling to use one because of eco concerns.
HerdOfTurtles	Posted - 11/04/2018 : 20:53:58 I have a Tohatsu MFS6BS 6hp 4 stroke. Dunno what prop it has. Weighs 57 lbs. The motor bracket I have is not a good situation as both hands have to be down by the motor when I lift it up so I can't really get any leverage. One hand on the motor itself and one hand on the release mechanism. If the motor weighed any more I would have a very hard time lifting it up on my own. Anyway, I think the motor is great. It's very easy to start, pretty quiet, sips gas, and moves the boat adequately. I think it tops out around 5 or maybe 5.5 kts full throttle but 3/4 throttle is a steady 4.5 kts. Personally, I don't think I would want any other motor. Maybe if I had a really nice motor bracket that made it easy to lift and an electric start 9.9 or 8 I could see that as an upgrade. But then again it's kind of a downgrade because it's just more liability of crap that can break and more expense doing maintenance for a very marginal benefit. Not to mention added stress on the transom. If you've got strong tidal currents like up north then I'd go for the bigger motor, otherwise no way.
bigelowp	Posted - 11/04/2018 : 12:26:02 FWIW -- my Tohatsu 9.8 25 inch shaft with electric start, etc., weighs 88 lbs. and moves the boat well in chop, tides and current. You may find lighter weight higher HP 4 stroke outboards than the Honda and Yamaha that seem to be heavier.
Steve Milby	Posted - 11/04/2018 : 10:02:02 quote: Originally posted by islander Steve, Do you know why Rob sold it? He upgraded to an electric start motor because his fiance had a shoulder problem and couldn't pull-start it. I don't know if the Sailpro 6 is available with electric start, so he might have had to go to a 8 or 9, but he said, at the time that "I'm selling our current motor [Sailpro 6] which has served us very well."
islander	Posted - 11/04/2018 : 09:42:44 Steve, Do you know why Rob sold it?

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.